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WHITMAN'S FINE CONFECTIONS. 

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shown by the authoress give many scenes of beauty to the | — Boston Evening Transcript. 

lATHAT A BOY! 

Problems Concerning Him : \. What shall we do with him ? IL What will he do 
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TOTLiDIVIOOR. 

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the lake country of England. The author writes with reaction, against the prevailing color of the modem 

genuine enthusiasm of the scenery. This love of nature novel." — New Vork World. 
IS a pleasant feature of the book ; scarcely less pleasant 



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IMPORTANT NEWS 

of the world, surpassing in this department any other afternoon paper in Philadelphia. Its Editorial Columns are devoted to 

iisriDEi='EisriDE3srT iDisoTJssionsr, 

and Its pages are daily supplied with a great variety of the choicest current Literature in all departments of popular interest, 
so making it 

THE BEST VARIETY PAPER. 

By its large circulation among the most intelligent and substantial classes of the community, it has long been recognized 
in business circles as unsurpassed in its advantages, in this city, as a desirable 

The newspaper which Is read at the Firesidk as well as in the Counting House Is the one that serves the best purpose of 
business men as AN ADVERTISER, and it is the aim of the proprietors of the EVENING BULLETIN to make It 
USEFUL TO THE PUBLIC, ATTRACTIVE AT THE FIRESIDE, VALUABLE TO BUSINESS MEN in 
every branch of industry. 

The EVENING BULLETIN devotes large space and attention to careful and accurate FINANCIAL AND 
COMMERCIAL reports of the leatling Dombstic and Foreign Markets. 

For particular information in regard to advertising, address the proprietors. 

PEACOCK, FETIIERSTON & CO., 

PHILADELPHIA. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS— ADVERTISER. 

STRAWBRIDfiE & CLOTHffiR, 



AT THEIR CENTRAL ESTABLISHMENT, 
N. W. Cor. Eighth and Market Streets, 

PHILADELPHIA, 

Offer to Consumers a Magnificeiit Stock ol 

Silks and Dress Goods, 

SHAWLS AND SUITS, 
Linen Goods and Muslins, 

BLANKETS AND QUILTS, 

And a seneral assortment of reliable makes of 



HODSE FURNISHING DRY GOODS. 



Our extensive and favorable connections, both at home and abroad, give us 
facihties unsurpassed in this country for the purchase of everything in our Hne. 
g°" Strangers are respectfully invited to inspect our establishment. 

STRAWBRIDGE & CLOTHIER. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS— ADVERTISER. 




EDDY'S PATENT THROUGHWAY VALVE, 

THE BEST AND SIMPLEST OPENWAY VALVE IN THE MARKET 
IFOIE?. -VSTJ^TEI?., STE^iyr, C3-.A.S, OILS, ETO. 

ALL SIZES FROM h INCH TO 36 INCH. 

A fully Illustrated Catalogue of these Valves mailed to any address. 

Wrought Iron and Galvanized Pipes, 

STEAM AND GAS FITTINGS, TOOLS, SUPPLIES, ETC. 

JENKINS'S PATENT GLOBE i^ND ANGLE VALVE, 

WITH ADJUSTABLE PLUMBAGO DISK. 

NOT THE CHEAPEST, BUT THE TIGHTEST AND MOST ECONOMICAL ONE 
IN THE MARKET. 

We would respectfully call the attention of all parties interested in or using 
steam to this Valve. The composition of which the disk is composed will not 
stick to any kind of metal, hot or cold. A joint can be made, and remain for 
years, and it will not adhere to the metal. All we ask of persons using Valves 
is to buy one, AND PUT IT ON THE WORST PLACE they can find, 
where they cannot KEEP OTHER VALVES TIGHT, and if this does 
not hold steam, water, or other fluid, tighter and longer than any other Valve, 
we will refund the money. 

A perfectly tight Valve under any and all pressures of Steam, Oils, Acids, 
and Gases. They are not injured by freezing. 

Sand or grit of any kind will not injure the seat of the Valve. 

You do not have to take them off to repair them, as there is nothing but the 
disk to give out, and that can be replaced in a very few minutes. 

Pancoast & Maule, 

No. 337 Peai- Street, Philadelphia. 




PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS—ADVERTISER. 




IMPROVED VERTICAL TUBE RADIATORS. 

Constructed with internal Steam Feed Pipes to each Tube, insuring perfect and 
uniform circulation and self-drainage of condensation. 

MANUFACTURED BY 

PANCOAST & MAULE, 

No. 227 Pear Street, Philadelphia, 

CONTRACTORS FOR IMPROVED HIGH AND LOW PRESSURE 

Steam and Hot Water Heating Apparatus, 

FOR PUBLIC AND PRIVATE BUILDINGS. 
Laundry, Culinary, and Green-House Appliances. 

ESTIMATES FURNISHED UPON APPLICATION. 

We invite correspondence from parties contemplating the erection of apparatus to be used 
in any of the many processes connected with manufactures in which steam is employed. 
Particular attention given to the erection of Drying Houses for Leather, Lumber, Wool, etc., 
and all varieties of Coils and Kettles for Dye Houses, Soap Factories, Breweries, and Chemical 
Works. Competent mechanics sent to all parts of the country to execute orders for Steam 
Fitting in all its branches. 

PANCOAST & MAULE. 

DESCRIPTIVE CIRCULARS AND PRICE LISTS MAILED OX APPLICATION. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS-ADVERTISER. 



SCHENCK'S BUILDING, 

Northeast Cor. Sixth and Arch Streets, Philadelphia. 




For Dyspepsia. 
For Coti^lis, Colds, and Bronchial Aflections. 



PHILADELPHIA 



AND ITS ENVIRONS, 



AND 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY 



O F 



P E N N S Y LV A N I A 



'V7"ITH: SS5 II_.I_.TJST:E^j^TIOIsrS. 




PHILADELPHIA: 

J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 



'TV 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, ^Y 

J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., 
in the Oifice of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 






4: 



PHILADELPHIA AMD ITS ENVIRONS. 




VIEW OF THE CITV AT LOGAN SQUARE. 

PHILADELPHIA, the second city in the Union in point of population, and the largest in 
area, was laid out by William Penn in 1682. 

The site was chosen by him because, as he says, " It seemed appointed for a town, because 
of its coves, docks, springs, and lofty land." The visitor now wonders where all these 
primeval advantages could have been. 

The Indian name of the place was " Co-a-que-na-que," or " Coaquanock." 

The original town-plot, as we gather from history, was a plain, nearly level, and high 
enough to make it dry and healthful. A few streams of water crossed parts of it, and there 
were a few hills and ravines, all of which disappeared long ago. 

The original plan of the city was a parallelogram two miles long, from the Delaware to the 
Schuylkill, by one mile wide, and contained nine streets running from the Delaware to the 
Schuylkill, crossed by twenty-one running north and south. In the centre was a square of 
ten acres, and in each quarter of the city one of eight acres, for public promenades and 
athletic exercises. This plan, so far as the arrangement of the streets is concerned, is still 
substantially adhered to. 

The streets running east and west were, with the exception of High Street, named after 
native trees. They were Vine, Sassafras, Mulberry, High, Chesnut {sic), Walnut, Spruce, 
Pine, and Cedar. Of these, Sassafras and Mulberry are now called Race and Arch, High is 
Market, and Cedar, South Street. The streets intersecting these were numbered from each 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



river to Broad Street, which, in the original plan, was in the middle of the plot, the western 
series being distinguished by the clumsy affix of "Schuylkill," as "Schuylkill Front," 
"Schuylkill Second," etc., until a comparatively recent period, when their nomenclature was 
reconstructed on more euphonious principles. 

The city proper was confined within these narrow limits from the date of its incorporation 

by Penn, in 1701, until 1854, when the Legislature, commiserating its overcrowded condition, 

wedged in, as it was, among its lusty children, Kensington, Germantown, Northern Liberties, 
West Philadelphia, Southwark, and the rest, — took them all in at one grasp, and incorporated 
the whole County of Philadelphia, — a territory twenty-three miles long and averaging five and 
a half broad, having an area of one hundred and twenty-nine and one-eighth square miles. 
The city has now plenty of elbow-room, and permission to grow as fast and as large as it 





riADlSON SQUARE. 



pleases ; a privilege of which it is not slow to take advantage, as the hundreds of building- 
permits issued monthly, and the solid squares of dwellings rising simultaneously from the 
ground on/>all the outskirts, bear ample testimony. 

The original city, with its crowded buildings and noisy streets, is fast yielding to the demands 
of commerce. The vicinity of the spot where it was begun, — Front Street, from Walnut to 
Arch, — though bustling and noisy enough during business hours, is a perfect desolation after 
six o'clock, and tha thousands who throng there all day long are miles away, resting, most of 
them, in comfortable homes, with plenty of living-room about them. There is no swarming 
in tenement houses, whole villages under one roof, and large families in one room, as in 
New York. 

The advancing tide of commerce and trade, ever surging westward from the Delaware, has 
already swept over Broad Street in the centre of the city, driving the dwellings of the people 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



before it. Market Street is lined with shops and warehouses from river to river ; Chestnut is 
invaded as far as Fifteenth Street, and Arch beyond Tenth ; while north and south traffic 
extends, on certain streets, to the limits of the built-up city. 

This disposition to give her citizens comfortable homes is Philadelphia's greatest pride and 
<7lorv. With a population less than that of New York, she has sixty thousand more houses. 
The poorest of the poor are scarcely compelled to live in quarters too small for them, and 
every mechanic can have a house to himself on payment of a moderate rental. 

Madison Square and St. Alban's Place, on Gray's Ferry Road, are instances of what can be 
done toward providing tasteful homes for the people. In each, two rows of houses, moderate 
in size, but built with an eye to substantial comfort, face each other across a wide street, down 
the middle of which stretches a miniature park. 

Philadelphia now has, in round numbers, a population of eight hundred thousand, living in 




VIEW OF FOUNTAIN IN FRANKLIN SQUARE. 



one hundred and thirty thousand dwellings. It has one thousand miles of streets and roads, 
more than half of which are paved, and beneath them run one hundred and forty miles of 
sewers, over six hundred miles of gas mains, and nearly as many of water-pipes. It has two 
hundred and twenty miles of street railways, running two thousand passenger cars ; and four hun- 
dred public schools, with over sixteen hundred teachers and more than eighty thousand pupils. 

But, as we have remarked above, the plan of the city, as it existed in the mind of its founder, 
contemplated an abundance of room; and this is the legitimate outgrowth of P^n's idea, 
which has never been permitted to die out entirely. His magnificent Centre Square shrank, 
indeed, to the comparatively diminutive Penn Squares, and even these have now been oblit- 
erated by the splendid municipal buildings at the intersection of Broad and Market Streets ; but 
these same Broad and Market Streets retain their pristine width ; the former of one hundred 
and thirteen feet, the latter of one hundred. The four squares in the four quarters of the city 
are still in existence, and, though long condemned to obscurity and neglect, they are now 
restored, and fulfilling their intended mission as "the lungs of the city." 

Washington Square is at Sixth and Walnut Streets ; close beside what was once the State- 
House Yard, now called Independence Square, in grateful remembrance that in it liberty was 
first proclaimed to the people. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



Washington Square was once a " Potter's field." Many soldiers, victims of the smallpox 
and camp fever, were buried here during the Revolution. The ground under the waving trees 
and springing grass, where the birds sing and the children play, is literally "full of dead men's 
bones," but the grass is no less green, the sunshine no less bright, on that account, and the 
dead sleep none the less peacefully, for the life above them. 

" The knights' bones are dust, 
And their swords are rust, 
Their souls are with the saints, we trust." 

At Eighteenth and Walnut Streets is Rittenhouse Square, and at Eighteenth and Race is 
Logan Square, the site of the great Sanitary Fair in 1864, when the entire square was roofed 
over and boarded up, the trunks of the trees standing as pillars in the aisles of the huge 
building, and their branches waving far above the roof. 

Franklin Square, at Sixth and Race, also long used as a burying-ground, completes the 
original number, and is rendered more attractive than the others by a large fountain, which 
plays daily during the summer. 

These, with the addition of Independence Square, the comparatively new Norris Square, in 
Kensington, and Jefferson Square, at Third and Washington Avenue, are the most impor- 
tant in the city ; but there are about half a dozen smaller ones in different sections, and we 
must devote a separate chapter to that grand breathing-place, Fairmount Park, — a resort 
unsurpassed in America. 

Penn first set foot on the site of his future city at the "Blue Anchor Landing," at the mouth 

of Dock Creek, in the vi- 
cinity of what is now the 
corner of Front and Dock 
Streets; where stood the 
" Blue Anchor Tavern," — 
the first house built within 
the ancient limits of the 
city. Then, and long after- 
wards, Dock Creek was a 
considerable stream ; Penn 
counted on it to furnish a 
natural canal to the heart 
of the town, and it was used 
for that purpose at first, 
but the water became so 
offensive, and the mud and 
washings of the city, which the current was too sluggish to remove, filled it up so rapidly, that 
it was finally arched over, and wagons now run where boats formerly floated, and the visitor 
to the venerable Girard Bank, on Third Street, below Chestnut, sees little to remind him that 
on the site of this stately pile a sloop, "loaded with rum from Barbadoes," once lay and 
discharge her cargo. And this explains the anomaly of the winding Dock Street in the 
midst orthe primly-drawn right lines of the ancient town : the street was constructed over a 
winding creek. 

The Blue Anchor Tavern was the beginning of Philadelphia, but other houses were m 
progress before it was finished ; Front Street was soon opened, and building followed its line. 
The first winter was passed by many of the inhabitants in caves dug in the river-bank, they 
having no time to build houses before the coming of cold weather. Log houses, however, 
soon became numerous enough to shelter all the people ; and the growth of the city, beginnmg 
thus on the Delaware, pushed gradually north, south, and west, until it became what we now 
sec it. Dock Creek, as we have seen, was obliterated. " Society Hill," in the neighborhood 
of Front and Pine, where Alderman Plumstcad had his hanging-garden, and Whitefield, at a 



^5f5^^ 




PHILADELPHIA AS PENN FIRST SAW IT. THE BLUE ANCHOR LANDING. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



later day, preached to fifteen thousand people, was razed, as was also the high bluff on the 
Delaware bank which Penn was so anxious to preserve as a public promenade forever, 
ordering that no houses should be built east of Front Street. All that remains of the bluff 
is an occasional flight of stairs leading up from Water to Front Street. Arch Street was sunk 
so low in a ravine that Front Street crossed it by an arched bridge, whence it derived its 
name ; but bridge and ravine are both gone now. So is the Duck Pond at Fourth and 
Market, into which the tide flowed, and in which boys caught fish that had found their way 
there from the Delaware; and so is Pegg's Run, once a considerable stream running from a 
spring in Spring Garden Street, near Sixth (whence the name of the former), through a marsh, 
to its junction with the Delaware, in the neighborhood of Noble Street. All these were once 
landmarks, but the present generation scarcely knows their names. 



THE STREETS. 

Philadelphia grew too fast and in too many directions at once, to permit either its business 
or its objects of interest to be collected in one quarter, or to follow a uniform line of position. 
The stranger visiting the city cannot walk up town, guide-book in hand, and see all that is to 
be seen, in a morning walk; nor can we direct him how to gather all the attractive points in 
a single route. The best we can do is to give him an idea of the arrangements of the streets, 
and tell him Avhere the points he will probably wish to see are located. Our map will then 
enable him to find them easily. 

All the streets running north and south are numbered from a base-line which is best 
described by saying that it is one square east of Front Street. In the original city, this is the 
Delaware ; but the stream curves both above and below these limits, and so streets east of that 
line are found in Kensington, Richmond, Southwark, and other parts of the present city. 

The houses are numbered alternately, — even numbers on the south side of the street, odd 
numbers on the north. Front Street being No. i, the house next west of it is No. loo. At 
Second Street, though the first loo is not exhausted, a second series begins ; and in this way 
one can always tell between what north-and-south-running streets he is. If the number of the 
nearest house is 836, for instance, he knows that Eighth Street is east of him, and that the next 
street west is Ninth. 

The regular succession of the numbered streets is interfered with in the vicinity of the 
Schuylkill by the winding course of that stream, which at Market Street causes a hiatus from 
Twenty -third to Thirtieth Streets. As, however. Thirtieth Street follows the western bank of 
the river, it forms a convenient means of distinguishing the location of a given address, as 
everything west of Thirtieth Street (and consequently, all houses numbered over 3000, in this 
direction) must be in West Philadelphia. 

Some unimportant exceptions to the rule just stated may be noticed in the way of named 
streets running north and south; but there are few ; and being, with the exception of Franklin 
Street, and perhaps one or two others, little better than alleys, they are* not likely%) mislead 
the visitor. But there are no exceptions to the rule that all streets running cast and west have 
names, instead of numbers. 

Market Street is always considered as a point of departure in reckoning these streets. It is, 
indeed, the base-line of the city. From it the houses are numbered north and south, and it is 
the grand business-centre, — the great artery, lying in the middle of the body corporate, and 
sending its streams of human and commercial life to all parts, not only of the metropolis, but 
of the State. This was the "High Street" of Penn and his successors, and its magnificent 
width was first made available to accommodate a line of market-houses which the founders 
of the place early provided for. The encroachments of commerce swept tliese out of 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



existence long ago, but not until they had given the street its new name. It is one hundred 
feet wide, and, hke Broad, runs in a perfectly straight line from one side of the city to the 
other. 

As in the streets running east and west, so in those running north and south, the houses are 
numbered alternately, even numbers on the west, odd numbers on the east ; and certain streets 
are designated as boundaries of the hundreds; for, when the city came to be closely built uj:. 




VIEW ON MARKET STREET. 



it was found that Penn's magnificent plan was on too grand a scale for practical purposes, and 
what might be termed mtcrcalmy streets had to be introduced. Another reason for these 
intermediate streets is that, as the city grew beyond its pristine limits, it became necessary to 
deflect the streets from a right line in order to accommodate them to the ground to be covered, 
as its shape was determined by the curving banks of the two rivers; and still another reason 
may be found in the failure of those who laid out the suburbs before mentioned to foresee the 
day when their infant colonics would be swallowed up by the young giant in their midst. 
They never expected them to be made part of Philadelphia, and saw no reason v hy their 
streets should conform to others just starting two or three miles away. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



After all, though, the streets forming the " even hundreds" are, with few exceptions, the 
principal ones, and are easily recognized, even without the assistance of the lists which may 
be obtained at any hotel. 

A few notable exceptions to the rectangular plan of the streets stretch away from the 
original town-plot, crossing lots as recklessly as if made by schoolboys impatiently taking the 
nearest way to chestnut-grove or huckleberry-patch, in the far-away past, and leading to the 
very confines of the city. These are the remains of highways built to connect Philadelphia 
with the outlying towns around her. They were formerly called roads ; and even now, though 
polite usage styles them "avenues," the homely phrase of the common folk clings to the old 
title, and it will be long before " Ridge Avenue" will be as familiar to the genuine Philadelphian 
as the " Ridge Road" of his boyhood. There is a local pride in keeping up the old names, — 
a certain home feeling, a familiarity born of old associations, which one does not willingly 
surrender. " Ridge Avenue" has a grandiloquent sound, well calculated to tickle the ears 
of "outside barbarians," and quite good enough for them; but what do they know about 
" Ridge Road" ? " Ridge Avenue" leads to Manayunk and the valley of the Schuylkill, but 
"Ridge Road," or its still dearer form, "the Ridge," leads back into the recesses of every 
true Philadelphian's memory. Think you he will easily vacate this highway to the past.-* 

Another of these historic avenues leads to Germantown; one goes to Frankford; another to 
Darby; Passyunk Avenue starts from South below Fifth, and runs southwest to Point Breeze; 
while others, again, are to be found in different parts of the city, running in all imaginable 
directions, as they were located by and for the public convenience. 



RELICS OF THE PAST. 

Philadelphia might with propriety be termed the Historical City of the Union, as it contains 
more souvenirs of our early history than any other. The oldest of these relics of antiquity, 
or what passes for antiquity in this emphatically New World, is the Old Swedes' Church, in 
Southwark, the ancient Wicaco. 

This venerable edifice was built in 1700, to take the place of a log structure which was erected 
in 1677 and served equally well for church or fort, as the exigencies of those somewhat 
uncertain times might demand. The present church is of brick, and is still regularly used. 
It stands in a cemetery where gravestones of all dates, from 1700, and the years immediately 
following, down to yesterday, may be seen ; though most of the oldest stones are so weather- 
worn that their inscriptions are partially or completely illegible. The building stands on 
Swanson Street, below Christian, but looks toward Otsego Street, from which it is reached 
by passing through the cemetery. Visitors can take Second and Third Street cars to 
Christian. 

Another relic, whose genuineness is established by Watson in his "Annals," is Penn's 
cottage in Letitia Street, a small street running from Market to Chestnut, between'Front and 
Second. This house was built for Penn's use, probably before his arrival in the settlement, 
and has, curiously enough, withstood the march of improvement which has swept away many 
more pretentious structures. It is a little two-story brick house, on the west side of the street, 
a few doors south of Market. 

A few steps from this, on the southwest corner of Front and Market Streets, is a small brick 
house, whose unique appearance attracts one's attention even before he knows that there is 
anything remarkable about it. It is now used as a tobacco-store ; but a hundred years ago it 
was the celebrated " London Cofifee-House," where all the dignitaries of the city were accus- 
tomed to meet and— oh, primeval simplicity ! — fill the exhilarating cup, and pledge each other 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



in — piping hot coffee. No stronger drink was sold there. The house was built in 1702, and 
was used as a dwelling-house for the first fifty years of its existence. 

No. 239 Arch Street, though a more modern building, is also noticeable as the place where 
the first American flag was made. 

On Second Street, north of Market, stands Christ Church, on the site of the first church 
erected by the followers of Penn. Tradition says that the frame church built by them in 1695 
was used as a place of worship until the walls of the new building inclosed it and were roofed 
over, when the old church was taken down and carried out piecemeal. The present edifice- 
was begun in 1727, and finished by the raising of the steeple in 1753-4. It is a solemn old 
place,— just the spot for one to think in and recall the many associations connected with it. 
The noisy street in front was quiet enough when the builders of this church walked solemnly 
to meeting on the Sabbath. It was grand enough, too, when Washington's gorgeous chariot, 
drawn by four elegant long-tailed bays, drew up before the church, and its stately master stepped 
inside through a waiting crowd of his admiring countrymen. The marble slabs in the yard 
have been worn smooth by the feet of those whom our country delights to honor. In the aisles 
are buried John Penn, Dr. Richard Peters, Robert Asheton, and many others, great men in 
their day, but all forgotten now. The bells in this high tower are said to be the oldest on this 
side of the Atlantic, — certainly the oldest chime. They joined in the ptean with which the 
State-House bell announced the birth of Liberty, and fled, like many of the congregation that 
worshiped below them, when it became evident that the city could not hold out against the 
enemy; but, like the congregation, they returned when the enemy was gone, and were not a 
whit disheartened by their exile. 

These bells, eight in number, were cast in London. Their leader, the tenor, says, " Christ 
Church, Philadelphia, 1754. Thomas Lester and Thomas Peck, of London, made us all." 
They were brought over, free of charge, by Captain Budden.in the ship " Myrtilla," and never 
failed thereafter to ring a joyous welcome whenever the captain's ship was seen coming up the 
river. One was cracked about 1834-5 and returned to its birthplace. White Chapel Bell 
Foundry, where Thomas Mears, the successor of Messrs. Lester and Peck, recast it and sent 
it back with an appropriate inscription. A tablet in the ringers' room records the fact that 

On Sunday, June 9, 1850, was rung in this Steeple Mr. Holt's celebrated ten-part peal of Grandsire triples, 
consisting of 5040 changes, in 3 hours and 15 minutes, by [eight performers], being the first peal of change- 
ringing ever performed in the United States. 

The massive timbers which uphold these bells are as sound as when put in, a century ago, 
and look as if they were good for another century, at least. 

The steeple of this church is one hundred and ninety-six feet in height, and the view from 
the outlook, which is probably one hundred and fifty feet from the ground, is beautiful enough 
to repay visitors for all the risk they run of cracked crowns and oroken necks in ascending 
the dark and tortuous stairs. The Delaware, with its puffing steamers and white-sailed ships, 
lies almost at the feet of the spectator, and is spread like a panorama for miles and miles. 
Away to the south a gleaming line indicates the junction of the two rivers, at League Island. 
Nearer the eye, the masts of Uncle Sam's big ships at the Navy Yard are displayed; ferry-boats 
steam steadily across the river ; and restless tugs ply up and down, convoying vessels a dozen 
times their size, or dash about in search of a tow ; all the wharves are crowded with vessels of 
all sizes, from the great ocean steamer to the diminutive " tub," and all the river is white with 
arriving and departing sails. Smith's and Windmill Islands lie in midstream almost opposite, 
and Petty's Island lies a short distance above. Near it a cloud of dust and a forest of masts 
mark the great coal-shipping port of the Reading Railroad, at Richmond; and beyond the 
river ripples and sparkles until lost in the hazy distance. 

Across the river are Camden and (jloucester, and behind them the level sands of New Jersey 
stretch away, so flat and unbroken by anything that would obstruct the vision that it requires 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



no great stretch of the imagination to believe that with a glass of moderate power one might 
see the waves of the Atlantic, sixty miles away as the crow flies. 




P^ VIEW LOOKING UP THE DELAWARE RI\ ER. 

Inland, the eye ranges over the entire city, from 
League Island on the south, to and beyond German- 
town, on the north, and from the Delaware to points far 
west of the Schuylkill. Second Street, the longest 
built-up street in the city, runs straight as an arrow 
to the northward, until its course is lost among the 
trees in the suburbs. Dozens of church spires rise into the air, the tall white stand-pipe of the 
Kensington Water-works standing conspicuous among them on the Delaware side of the city, 
matched by that of the Twenty-fourth Ward Works on the west side of the Schuylkill, To 
the northwest, Girard College stands boldly out ; the Moorish dome of the Broad Street Jewish 
Synagogue rises south of it ; and almost due west of the spectator the massive bulk of the 
Masonic Temple, and the graceful spires, brown and white, of th6 churches at Broad and Arch, 
mark the spot which is destined to contain, in the near future, a collection of architectural 
triumphs unrivaled in the city. Bits of green, set here and there among the crowding houses, 
indicate the public squares ; and beyond all the eye rests delighted on the leafy richness of 
Fairmount Park and of the open country in the suburbs. 

Nor must we overlook a small street opening into Second Street, directly opposite the church, 
and a tall block of warehouses closing up its eastern end ; for these were Stephen Girard's stores 
and houses, and all the land about them belonged to him. 

Christ Church belongs to the Protestant Episcopal denomination. Two services are held in 
it on Sunday, and it is open for prayers on Wednesday and Friday at ii a.m., at which times 
it may be visited. 

The great elm-tree under which William Penn made his famous treaty with the Indians was 
at Shackamaxon (now Kensington), — a name still preserved in the nomenclature of the streets 
in that vicinity. The silent witness of "the only treaty ever ratified without an oath, and the 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



only one never broken," stood for more than a century. It was a favorite resort in summer 
time ; the citizens sat under its branches, and whole congregations worshiped in its shade ; 
but in 1810 it was blown down, and nothing now remains to mark the place where it stood but 
an insignificant monument, which none but a sharp eye can discover. It stands on the east 

side of Beach Street, a few steps north of Hanover 
(which is marked Columbia Street on most maps). 
The visitor who has imbibed the popular fallacy that 
the streets of Philadelphia are straight, and cross each 
other at right angles, has only to visit Kensington to 
be thoroughly and permanently cured of that idea. 
If he can make his way, unassisted, from any business 
centre to the site of the famous Treaty Tree, without 
becoming hopelessly bewildered, he will do for a back- 
woodsman. All others should take the Second and 
Third Street cars to Hanover Street. They will then 
have but one square to walk. 

The stone, which is not noticeable from across the 
street, stands in an inclosure just large enough to hold 
it, in the midst of stone and lumber yards, and in the 
shade of a tall elm which may possibly be a lineal 
descendant of the one whose site it shades. 

An interesting relic of our early history, and one 
whose disappearance every true Philadelphian must regret, was Penn's Mansion, the 'Old 
Slate-Roof House," — so called because at the time it was built it was the only structure covered 
with that material in the city. This house, which stood on Second Street, below Chestnut, was 
built by Samuel Carpenter at a very early date, and was used as a residence by Penn on the 
occasion of his second visit to this country, in 1700, at which time he brought his family with 




THE PENN TREATY 



MONUMENT. 




THE OLD SLATK-ROOF HOUSE. 



him. Here John Penn, the only member of the family born on American soil, and called for 
that reason "the American," was born, one month after the arrival of the family. Here Gov- 
ernor Lloyd, one of Penn's companions, a descendant — according to tradition — of Meric, who 
bore one of the four golden shields before Arthur when he was crowned king at Caerleon, him- 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



self the heir to great estates, and an early deputy-governor of Pennsylvania, was a frequent 
visitor. Here Isaac Norris, the first of a still honorable house, and Isaac his son and successor 
in the Speakership of the Provincial Assembly, were frequent guests. Here, in later times, 
General Forbes, Braddock's successor, died ; and still later, General Harry Lee was also buried 




INDEPENDENCE HALL. 



from the house, while \\*ashington, Hancock, Reed, Dickinson, the elder Adams, and their 
contemporaries often honored the old mansion by their presence. 

Afterwards its glory departed. It sank lower and lower in the scale of respectability, until 
at last, having become a mere shell and hollow mockery of its former greatness, it was torn 



12 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



down, in 1867, to make room for the splendid building of the Commercial Exchange, which 
stands on its site. 

On the south side of Chestnut Street, about midway between Third and Fourth Streets, an 
iron railing guards the passage-way to a building which deserves more than any other 'the 
proud title of the cradle of American Independence. It is Carpenters' Hall, the place where, 




as an inscription on the wall proudly testifies, " Henry, Hancock, and Adam= mspired the 
Delegates of the Colonies with Nerve and Sinew for the Toils of War;" the place where the 
first Continental Congress met, and where the famous " first prayer in Congress" was delivered 
by Parson Duch6 on the morning after the news of the bombardment of Boston had been 
received, and men knew that the war was indeed " inevitable." The old man's prayer brought 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



tears to the eyes of even the grave and passionless Quakers who were present, and the voices 
which had opposed the proposition to open the sessions of Congress with prayer were never 
raised for that purpose again. Here the first Provincial Assembly held its sittings, to be 
succeeded by the British troops, and afterwards by the first United States Bank, and still later 
by the Bank of Pennsylvania. 

Built in 1770, Carpenters' Hall was at first intended only for the uses of the Society of 
Carpenters, by whom it was founded. Its central location, however, caused it to be used for the 
meetings of delegates to the Continental Congress, and for other public purposes ; and when 
no longer needed for these, it passed from tenant to tenant, until it degenerated into an auction 
room. Then the Company of Carpenters, taking patriotic counsel, resumed control of it, fitted 
it up to represent as nearly as might be its appearance in Revolutionary days, and now keeps 
it as a sacred relic. The walls are hung with interesting mementos of the times that tried 
men's souls. The door is always open to the patriotic visitor. 

Little need be said of Independence Hall, for it is known wherever America herself is known, 
and its history is a familiar one to every schoolboy. Commenced in 1729, and completed in 1735, 
the State-House is most intimately associated in the American mind with the date 1776. In the 
east room of the main building (Independence Hall proper) the second Continental Congress 
met, and there, on the 4th of July, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was adopted, and from 
the steps leading into Independence Square, then the State-House Yard, it was read to the 
multitude assembled by the joyful pealing of the bell overhead, — the same bell which now, 
cracked and useless, but with its grand, prophetic motto still intact, rests in state in the entrance 
hall. And in Congress Hall, in the second story, Washington delivered his farewell address. 

Independence Hall is preserved as befits the glorious deed that was done in it. The furniture 
is the same as that used by Congress ; portraits of our country's heroes crowd the walls, and 
relics of our early history are everywhere. 
The building stands on the south side of 
Chestnut Street, between Fifth and Sixth. 
The three isolated buildings which stood 
here in 1776 are now connected, others 
having been built in the spaces between 
them, and the entire square is now used 
for court-rooms and offices connected 
with them, and has a local reputation as 
"State-House Row." It is, however, 
proposed to restore the buildings as 
nearly as possible to their original con- 
dition before the Centennial Anniversary. 

Visitors are admitted to Independence 
Hall between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. daily. 
The Superintendent will, on application, 
furnish tickets admitting the bearer to 
the steeple, from which a splendid pano- 
ramic view of the entire city can be had. 
An interesting museum of articles con- 
nected with American history has also 
been estabhshed here, which contains 
much to attract the attention of the patri- 
otic visitor. 

The wide sidewalk in front of State-House Row is paved with slate, which forms an admirable 
pavement, and is ornamented with trees. Two drinking-fountains represent one of Philadel- 
phia's noblest charities, and a statue of Washington guards the place whose memory is so 
inseparably linked with his own. 




FRANKLIN S GRAVE. 



14 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



Still another memento connected with the Declaration of Independence exists. It is, or, rather, 
was, " Hiltzheimer's New House," once Jefferson's boarding-house, and the place where he 
wrote the immortal Declaration. It is a plain, three-story brick building, on the southwest 
corner of Seventh and Market Streets. The lower floor is now a clothing depot, and the upper 
ones are used for various business purposes. 

Another shrine which the patriotic pilgrim will not fail to visit is Franklin's grave. It is in 
the o-raveyard of Christ Church, on the corner of Fifth and Arch. A section of iron railing in 
the brick wall on Arch Street permits the visitor to look upon the plain slab which, in accord- 
ance with Franklin's wishes, covers all that remains of the philosopher-statesman and his wife. 



MARKET STREET. 

Market Street, from river to river, is the grand entrepot of inland and foreign commerce. 
Its magnificent width affords ample room and great facilities for the moving of heavy goods ; 




VIEW ON MARKI T STREET 



LIPPINCOIT &. CO S PUBLISHING HOUSE 



railway tracks are laid down in it, running directly into numerous depots and warehouses, and 
whole cargoes of merchandise arc thus daily sent from the warehouse direct to distant points. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



15 



A walk along this street shows many fine buildings, but few of special note. We have 
already alluded to the Old London Coffee-House, on the corner of Front and Market ; to Penn's 
House, in Letitia Street, and to Christ Church, in Second Street, above Market. 

Second Street presents in itself a peculiar feature of the city, which the visitor should not 
fail to see. It is to Philadelphia what the Bowery is to New York. Of great length, and 
running in an almost undeviatingly straight line from the northern to the southern portions of 
the city, it is lined with miles of retail stores of the humbler class, placed with a most supreme 
disregard for the fitness of things. Hardware, clothing, grocery, confectionery, dry-goods, 
and almost every other conceivable species of store, follow each other with as little regularity 
as the scenes in a kaleidoscope ; and mingled with them, as if to make the variety as complete 
as possible, are a few wholesale houses, two or three "museums" and "menageries," and the 
omnipresent beer-saloons. 




J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO.'S PRINTING-OFFICE AND BINDERY. 

But, interesting though Second Street is, we cannot linger long here, but must return to the 
busy, bustling scenes of Market Street. Of the many large business houses on this street, we 
make special mention of the establishments of Garden & Co., extensive dealers in hats, whose 
tall, white building is a conspicuous object on Market above Sixth, and that of J. B. Lippin- 
cott & Co., one of the largest pubhshing houses in the world. This estabhshment is older than 
the present century, and has risen with the city, from a small beginning to its present mammoth 
proportions. Their Printing-Office and Bindery, on Filbert Street, in the rear of the store, is 
one of the largest and most substantial buildings in the city. 

The mammoth establishment of Hood, Bonbright & Co., importers and jobbers of dry-goods, 
on Market Street, above Eighth, is also worthy of special notice. 

A good hotel, at a moderate price, will be found in the Bingham House, the third in size in 
the city. This house is on the corner of Eleventh and Market, and, as shown in the cut, covers 
a great extent of ground. 



i6 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



The square of ground opposite the Bingham House, and bounded by Chestnut, Market, 
Eleventh and Twelfth, is one of the monuments of Philadelphia's most munificent benefactor, 
Stephen Girard. This gentleman left the whole of his enormous wealth to the city of Phila- 
delphia, excepting some minor bequests, amounting, in the aggregate, to between three and 
four hundred thousand dollars. 

The best known of the trusts established by Mr. Girard's will is the celebrated Girard College, 
spoken of in another place. Another was the square of ground above described, which is now 
covered with buildings, and thus tends by its rentals to reduce materially the city taxes. 

Another princely bequest of Mr. Girard's was about eighteen thousand acres of coal and 
timber lands in Schuylkill and Columbia Counties. Of this territory it is estimated that five 

thousand five hundred acres is coal 
land. With the exception of a small 
amount mined by Stephen Girard 
himself, very early in the history of 
coal-mining, these magnificent de- 
posits were untouched until 1863, 
when they were developed, and 
found to be among the best anthra- 
cite coal lands in the State. There 
are now ten collieries located on the 
Girard lands, producing about one 
million tons of coal annually. 

Mr. Girard also bequeathed to the 
city four thousand seven hundred and 
seventy-five acres of land in what is 
now Hart County, Kentucky ; and this 
has also proved a source of revenue. 
Immediately opposite a portion of 
the Girard Square, on the northeast 
corner of Twelfth and Market, is a 
huge building known as the " Far- 
mers' Market." This was built by 
the associated farmers, who, consider- 
ing themselves aggrieved by the man- 
ner in which the public markets were 
conducted, resolved to build a house 
for themselves ; and we cannot regret 
the quarrel, since it has given us this 
fine and convenient building. 

Two other market-houses, similarly 
constructed, are situated farther west 
on this street. 

Extensive gas works are situated at Twenty-Third and Market. 

The Market Street Bridge, a commodious but unsightly structure, does good service in trans- 
porting goods and passengers to the western division of the city. All the merchandise and 
nearly all the passengers for the Pennsylvania Railroad and its numerous branches must cross 
this bridge ; having done which, they speedily arrive at the company's two depots, occupying 
the square on the north side of Market, between Thirty-first and Thirty-second. 

Market Street is fast pushing its way westward. Already its line of horse-cars runs to Forty- 
first Street, while a branch extends to Haddington, on the western verge of the city. 

This line of cars runs to the celebrated " Kirkbride" Lunatic Asylum, more properly known 
as the Pennsylvania Hospital for the Insane, the oldest institution of the kind in America. 




PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



17 



having been established in 1751 ; though it has occupied its present location only since 1841. 
The institution is located on a farm of one hundred and thirteen acres, the entrance-gates 
beino- on Haverford Road. About one-third of the grounds is laid out in gardens and pleasure- 




BINGHAM HOUSE. 

grounds, and the whole estate is fitted up in the manner most calculated to attract and interest 
the patients. The treatment is such that the mind is kept constantly employed, and the 




VIEW DUWN xMARKET t>TREET, FROM TWELFTH. 

patients are restored to health, if at all, by kindness and judicious treatment, instead of endur- 
ing the mad-house horrors so common in the last century. 

Permits to visit the asylum can be obtained at the office of the Public Ledger, Sixth and 
Chestnut Streets. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



CHESTNUT STREET. 

The stranger visiting Philadelphia will naturally consider Chestnut Street as the represent- 
ative of the city. Its noble buildings, its handsome stores, and especially the crowds which 
at all times throng its sidewalks, induce him to associate the idea of Philadelphia with this 
single street ; and it is this which presents itself to his mind's eye whenever the city is after- 
wards named in his hearing. 

Let us in imagination traverse the entire length of the street, and note its objects of interest. 

Starting from the Delaware front of the city, at Chestnut Street Wharf, where many river 
steamers land, we turn our faces westward, pass through tlie tide of commerce which ever 
flows along Delaware Avenue, on the river bank, and climb the rather steep grade leading up 
to Front Street, which still presents a reminder of William Penn's " high and dry bank." 




CHESTNUT STREET BRIDGE. 

The loftv fronts of wholesale drv-goods houses, which line both.sides of the street as far as 
Third Street, together with the nanw sidewalks, make this portion of it seem narrow and 
gloomv. though \he roadwav is of uniform width from end to end. At Second Street, we make 
a diversion to the left, and in a moment stand before the Chamber of Commerce, the new and 
handsome hall of the Commercial Exchange. This building, which ,s of brown stone, m the 
Roman-Gothic Stvle. was built in 1870. on the site of the f^rst Exchange, wh.ch was destroyed 
bv fire about a vear before, w^hile still in its first youth, and which was the noble succe.soi oi 
what was. in its' time, a noble mansion.-the " Slate-Roof House," already spoken of. 

Immediatelv opposite the Chamber of Commerce stands a plain ^"^^.^"'^?'"Vt t'd Stnte" 
spicuous from its great size and severe simplicity of style. Th.s contains the Umted St t 
Appraiser's Stores, and is noted as being one of the few really fire-proof bmldmgs in America 
Its brick walls are of enormous thickness, and the windows are protected by iron ^^^'^ters set 
in niches so deep that no fire can warp them open. Inside, all is of iron and bnck, coated 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



with fire-proof cement where ne- 
cessary, and so arranged that the 
entire contents of one room may 
burn without injuring anything con- 
tained in the adjoining apartments. 

The building is 74 feet front by 
247 feet in depth, and is five stories 
high, exclusive of the basement. 
It occupies the site of the old Penn- 
sylvania Bank building, the marble 
of which that structure was com- 
posed having been built into the 
vaults, in default of a purchaser, 
thus presenting the anomaly of a 
massive foundation of marble placed 
under a brick building, and that, 
too, at a cost much less than that 
of ordinary stone. 

This building is quite new, having 
been finished in the fall of 1871. 
Its warerooms are of magnificent 
dimensions, two of them being 70 
by 130 feet in extent, and three 
others 70 by 180. 

Retracing our steps to Chestnut 
Street, we admire the handsome 
buildings which adorn it between 
Second and Third Stie:!^. On the 




BANK OF NORTH .AMERICA. 




tradesmen's bank, third street. 



southeast corner of Third is the main 
office of the Western Union Telegraph 
Company, a five-story brick building, 
radiating wires in every direction, in such 
numbers that the intersection of the streets 
seems to be covered with an iron net- 
work. Directly opposite this, on the 
southwest corner, is the office of the 
Public Record. 

Third Street is the home of the bankers 
and brokers. To a certain extent, it is 
the Wall Street of Philadelphia. On it 
we find the eminent banking-house of 
Drexel & Co., and many others. 

Again turning to the left, we pass the 
office of the ETcning Telegraph, and 
a few doors below it find the Girard 
Bank, a venerable but still stately edifice, 
built 1795-8 for the fiii^t United States 
Bank, and. afterwards occupied by the 
man whose name it bears, and whose 
memory Philadelphia must ever cherish 
as that of the most munificent benefactor 
she has ever had ; and nearly opposite 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



this is one of the most beautiful banking-houses in the citv It i. ,h. t j . „ , 

small but elegantly-designed building, of wh.te kl„ Hampshi ^ranL " f'': ! 

pillars and tablets of highly-pol.shed'Aberdeen. The ^^^^^ZTLZlZZt^X^ 
With an eye to equal beauty and security. ^^ ^ fuinished, 




Again resumin- our way up Chestnut Street, we pass, on the south side, the office of the 

Inquirer, and immediately after, on the north, the Bank of North America, the first bank estab^ 

ished m the United States, it having been founded by Congress in 178 1, when the credit of 

the country was very far indeed below par. Robert Morris was one of the principal ori-inators 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



of this bank, and it proved a valuable auxiliary to his efforts in behalf of the public treasury. 
By its aid he succeeded in raising again the public credit and in establishing a good circulating 
medium. The present building is of brown stone, in the Florentine style of architecture. Next 
above, and separated from the bank only by a narrow alley, is the new building of the Guaran- 
tee Trust and Safe Deposit Company, a beautiful structure of pressed brick ornamented with 
Ohio stone and colored tiles. Its frontage on Chestnut Street is 57 feet, and its depth 198 feet. 
The building was erected in 1874, and has the merits of combining novelty and beauty of 
design with the greatest security against both fire and theft. The safe deposit vaults, six in 




CUSTOM-HOUSE AND POST-OFFICE. 

number, are situated at the rear end of the building, and are constructed with every precaution 
for safety. Each vault is ten feet wide by eighteen feet deep. 

Below Fourth Street, and opposite Carpenters' Hall, is the elegant white marble building of 
the Fidelity Safe Deposit and Insurance Company, which combines a handsome exterior with 
the most impregnable security that modern science can devise. It is in the Italian style, 
with a front of Lee marble, and is the largest enterprise of the kind in the country. The 
safe alone weighs 150 tons, and cost $60,000. And on Fourth Street, just below Chestnut, 
stands the new iron building of the Provident Life and Trust Company, a much admired 
piece of architecture. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 













mmfM 



tmij^nn 









5' "'^'; Lfji^^^ 




THE CONTINENTAL HOTEL. 




PROVIDENT LIFE AND TRUST CO.'S HUILDING. 



The Custom- House stands on 
the south side of the street, between 
Fourth and Fifth. It has two fronts, 
one on Chestnut, the other on Li- 
brary Street, each ornamented with 
eight fluted Doric columns, 27 feet 
high and 4 feet 6 inches in diameter, 
supporting a heavy entablature. It 
is in imitation of the Parthenon at 
Athens, and is one of the purest 
specimens of Doric architecture in 
the country. The building was 
completed in 1824, having cost 
$500,000, and was formerly the 
United States Bank. It is now used 
by the United States Sub-Treas- 
ury and Custom-House officers. 

Opposite the Custom-House, just 
above the Philadelphia Bank, a 
handsome granite building, stands 
the Farmers' and Mechanics' Bank, 
an imposing white marble structure. 
This Bank, one of the oldest insti- 
tutions of its kind in the city, com- 
menced its existence in 1807, with 
a capital of ^700,000, as "An Asso- 
ciation for the loaning of money 
upon reasonable terms, under the 
name and style of The President 
and Directors of the Farmers' and 
Mechanics' Bank in the City of 
Philadelphia, the object and oper- 
ations of which are calculated to 
advance the interest of agriculture. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



23 



manufactures, and the mechanical arts, to produce benefit to trade and industry in general, 
and to repress the practice of usury." It first occupied the building No. 102 Chestnut Street 
(old number), above Third Street. In 1809 the Association was chartered by the Legislature 
of Pennsylvania as the Farmers' and Mechanics' Bank, with a capital of $1,250,000, and was 
four times re-chartered. Not very long after this the bank was moved to No. 100 Chestnut 
Street, where it remained until the purchase of a capacious mansion-house on the site of the 
present banking building. This house was a Revolutionary landmark, having been the head- 
quarters of Lord Howe during the British occupation of Philadelphia. In 1855 they took 
possession of their new building, the banking-room proper being in the rear, and approached 
by a corridor running through the 
front edifice, which is divided into 
offices, and is partly occupied by 
the Philadelphia Clearing-House. 
This Bank is the Clearing-House 
depositary, and is also transfer 
agent of the Commonwealth and 
City of Philadelphia, for the trans- 
fer of its loans and payment of 
the interest thereon. April 24, 
1856, the capital was increased to 
$2,000,000. 

Adjoining the Farmers' and 
Mechanics' Bank, just above, is 
the building of the Pennsylvania 
Life Insurance and Trust Com- 
pany. The front is of Quincy 
granite, of a massive and impos- 
ing style of architecture, well 
suited to the substantial character 
of the Company, which is the 
oldest of its kind in the city, hav- 
ing been established in 1812. No 
expense or pains have been spared 
in rendering the new building per- 
fect for its purposes, as a fire- and 
burglar-proof structure. The safes 
alone involved an outlay of nearly 
$100,000. The former office of the 
Company was in Walnut Street 
above Third. 

Just above the Custom-House 
is the old Post-Office, a handsome 

marble building. Although the facilities of this department were greatly increased when this 
Office was built, not long since, the rapid growth of its business now calls for greater space, 
and to supply the want a new building is being erected at the corner of Ninth and Chestnut 
Streets, for which an appropriation of $3,000,000 has been made. 

Around the corner, in Fifth Street, is the Philadelphia Library, one of the staidly solemn 
things which seem still to preserve the spirit of the city's Quaker founders. It was founded in 
1731, — mainly through the influence of Dr. Franklin, whose statue, in marble, is placed over 
the entrance, — and took possession of its present buildings in 1790. It still observes the rules 
made for its government in 1731, and has a venerable air about it which impresses one strongly 
as he steps into its quiet halls. But, notwithstanding its age and sedateness, the library keeps 




FIDELITY SAFE DEPOSIT COMPANY S BUILDING. 



24 



PHILADELPHIA AND IIS ENVIRONS. 



pace with time, and new books are constantly being placed on its shelves. The Loganian 
Library is in the same building. Both libraries united contain about 95,000 volumes. 

The building of the American Philosophical Society stands opposite the library. The 
dream-life into which one unconsciously falls in the alcoves of the library is rudely broken, 
as he steps out, by the constant bustle about the Mayor's Office and the Police Headquarters, 
on the southwest corner of Fifth and Chestnut. This building is at the eastern end of " State- 




FARMERS' AND MECHANICS' BANK. 

House Row," noticed in connection with Independence Hall, which stands in the middle of 
the Row. 

Glancing at Fred. Brown's handsome drug-store, on the northeast corner, we next pass the 
American Hotel, also on the north side of Chestnut Street. 

On the southwest corner of Sixth and Chestnut, the imposing brown-stone pile ot the 
Ledger building attracts the stranger's eye, and he recognizes it at once as one of the lions of 
the city. It is well shown in our engraving. 

On the northwest corner is the office of the Day, and a few doors above the Day office is 
that of the Evening Bulletin, the oldest afternoon paper in the city. Nearly opposite the 
Bulletin office is the handsome office of the Germuji Democrat, and on the corner of Seventh 
Street that of the Press. 

At this point the fashionable promenade may be said to begin. Bright faces and gay cos- 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



25 




FItlH AND CHbbTNUT 



tumes throng the sidewalk beyond this, and the street is Hned with the tastefully arranged shop- 
windows for which Philadelphia is noted. The group which our artist has collected in front 




PUBLIC LEDGER BUILDING. 



26 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



of the store of Henry A. Drear, the well-known seedsman and florist, is a fair sample of what 
may be seen along this portion of the street on any fine afternoon. 

The extensive and elegant front of the old Masonic Temple next attracts attention. It is a 
very beautiful building, and was once considered the finest of its kind in the United States ; 
but it became too small, and the brethren of the mystic tie accordingly built the new and 
splendid structure at Broad and Filbert Streets, which will be noticed in the proper place. The 
old one will probably be devoted to business uses, the handsome stores already in the building 

showing its fitness for such pur- 
.,^ poses. 

One block above, the Girard 
House lifts its stately front. This 
is the second hotel, in point of 
size, in the city of Philadelphia, 
and it is a formidable competitor 
of its mammoth rival across the 
way, the far-famed Continental. 

The latter, by far the largest 
hotel in the city, covers forty-one 
thousand five hundred and thirty- 
six square feet of ground. It is six 
stories high ; the Chestnut Street 
front being of Albert and Pictou 
sandstone, and the others, on 
Ninth and Sansom Streets, of fine 
pressed brick. It was opened in 
February, i860, and has ever since 
been a favorite with the traveling 
public. All its appointments are 
of the most perfect description. 
An elevator carries guests from 
the ground floor to the highest 
story ; telegraph wires convey their 
messages to any part of the coun- 
try ; their baggage is checked and 
their tickets purchased under the 
same roof; while the tables are of 
the finest. 

Diagonally across from the Con- 
tinental is the site for the new Post- 
Office, on the north side of Chest- 
nut, above Ninth. It will occupy 
half the square between Chestnut 
and Market and Ninth and Tenth. 
At this writing, the details of the new Post-Office have not been completed. The ground 
appropriated to its use extends from Chestnut to Market Streets, a distance of 484 feet, and is 
175 feet 9 inches in width. The building will cover 425 feet 8 inches on Ninth Street by 150 feet 
on Chestnut and Market. It is proposed to make Ninth Street 20 feet wider, and it is thought 
the United States Government will eventually purchase the whole square bounded by Chestnut, 
Market, Ninth and Tenth Streets, and dedicate it to national use. 

On the southwest corner of Ninth and Chestnut stands a group of marble stores which are 
unsurpassed for substantial beauty in the city. Fine stores, indeed, may be said to be the rule 
from Ninth to Eleventh, and there are many on either side of these limits. 




PENNSYLVANIA INSURANCE AND TRUST CO.'S BUILDING. 



THILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



27 



On the northwest corner of Tenth and Chestnut Streets stands the magnificent granite 
building of the Mutual Life Insurance Company of New York. It is one of the handsomest 
structures in the city, and is a fit representative of the enterprise of the great and wealthy 
corporation that erected it, and whose offices are located within its walls. No expense has 
been spared to render the building perfect in every respect, it being entirely fireproof, and 
admirably arranged for its purposes. 

"Girard Row," on the north side of Chestnut from Eleventh to Twelfth, contams many 
elegant stores. Among them are C. F. Haseltine's extensive and elegant art galleries, shown 
in our engraving, and the warerooms of the Schomacker Piano Company, the pioneers of 




BUILDING OF THE MUTUAL LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY OF NEW YORK. 



the piano business in Philadelphia. We present a view of their factory, situated at Eleventh 
and Catherine Streets, an immense establishment, having a capacity of twenty pianos a week. 
At 1 122 Chestnut Street the building of the American Sunday-School Union finds itself in 
the very centre of business now, but when erected, in 1854, it was quite " out of town." This 
is the head-quarters and central office of the Union ; but its branches ramify all over the 
world, and its missionaries are continually extending its sphere of usefulness. Founded in 
1817 as an Adult and Sunday-School Union, it was instituted as the American Sunday-School 
Union in 1824, and has ever since been steadily at work, instructing and elevating the masses. 



28 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



The splendid building containing Bailey & Co.'s jewelry-store, on the southeast corner of 
Twelfth and Lhestnut. will excite the admiration of the visitor. This store-room is the largest 




OLD MASONIC TEMPLE. 



Of its kind in the city. It presents a front of forty-four feet on Chestnut Street by two hun- 
dred and forty feet on Twelfth, and its ceiling is twenty-two feet in height. The buildin^ was 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



29 




SCENE ON CHESTNUT STREET 

erected by Dr. S. S. White, who occupies all of it, except 
the first floor, for the manufacture and sale of artificial 
teeth, dentists' instruments, etc., in which specialty he does 
the largest business in the world, having branch houses in 
New York, Boston, and Chicago. 

We next pass the building of the Young Men's Chris- 
tian Association, on Chestnut Street, above Twelfth, and 
the Chestnut Street Theatre and Concert Hall, on the op- 
posite side of the street, and, crossing Thirteenth Street, 
come to the United States Mint. 

This building was erected in 1829, pursuant to an act of 
Congress enlarging the operations of the government coin- 
ing, and supplementary to the act creating the Mint, which 
was passed in 1792. The structure is of the Ionic order, 
copied from a temple at Athens. It is of brick, faced with 
marble ashlar. 

Visitors are admitted before twelve o'clock, every day 
except Saturday and Sunday ; and the beautiful and delicate 
operations and contrivances for coining, as well as the ex- 
tensive numismatic cabinet, are well worth seeing. 

The new building of the Presbyterian Board of Publica- 
tion stands nearly opposite the Mint. It is a handsome 
four-story edifice, with a front of white granite, trimmed 
with polished Aberdeen stone. 




AMERICAN SUNDAY-SCHOOL UNION. 



3° 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



Soon after crossing Broad Street, we pass beyond the realms of trade and enter the domicil- 
iary portion of the street ; though we shall not leave all the stores behind us until we have 
passed Fifteenth Street. 

Here, on the corner of Fifteenth and Chestnut, the Colonnade Hotel has recently been 

built to meet the growing de- 
mands for up-town hotel ac- 
commodations. It takes its 
name from Colonnade Row, a 
handsome series of buildings, 
several of which were torn 
down to make room for it. 
The Colonnade is a large and 
well-kept hotel ; it can accom- 
modate four hundred guests, 
and its kitchen facilities are 
especially complete. 

Opposite the Colonnade Ho- 
tel, on the southeast corner 
of Fifteenth and Chestnut 
Streets is the site on which 
it is proposed to erect the 
new building of the Young 
Men's Christian Association, 
which is designed to be a 
very handsome and substan- 
tial structure, with every ad- 
vantage for advancing the 
objects of the Association. 
The ground floor will be de- 
voted to stores. 

From the Colonnade, rows 
of stately dwellings extend to 
the Schuylkill, over which a 
substantial and elegant bridge 
has recently been thrown. 

Another new bridge, to ex- 
tend from South and Chippewa 
Streets to the west side of the 
West Chester Railroad, a total 
distance of 2419 feet, is in 
course of erection at South 
Street, a short distance farther 
down the river ; and an ele- 
gant one, used by the Junction 
Railroad, is just below that. 

The Schuylkill may be reck- 
oned among Philadelphia's 
"reserve forces." With a 
depth of water sufficient to float a frigate, and room enough on either bank for long rows of 
wharves and warehouses, it is comparatively deserted. Some coal- and stone-yards on its 
shores employ a few vessels annually. The Schuylkill Canal brings down numbers of boats 
from the mines in the coal regions ; but, apart from these, there is as yet no commerce on the 




PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



31 




TWELFTH AND CHESTNUT. — DR. S. S. WHITE S BUILDING. 

Schuylkill. This grand avenue to the future heart of the city is still waiting for the time when 
its services shall be required, — a time which cannot be far distant. Indeed, it can be largely 




SCHOMACKER PIANO FACTORY, ELEVENTH AND CATHERINE STREETS. 



32 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




UNITED STATES MINT. 

used for the transportation of goods to the Centenary Exhibition, and will doubtless find its 
commerce greatly increased by that event. 

For a few squares on the west side of the Schuylkill, Chestnut Street retains the solidly 
built-up appearance of a city street ; but this is soon lost in a succession of elegant villas and 
country seats, and, finally, in a territory which, as yet, is a part of the city only on the map. 

As a specimen of suburban architecture, we present a view of the residence of A. J. Drexel, 
the well-known banker, at Thirty-ninth and Walnut, West Philadelphia. 



-urn. fl '' y.-iS^Pn^^^^ sS ^ M R 







11 ji! 




E! 

Ml 






1? ^ ^ 

V V V 

^ •^ 3,1. 




THE COLONNADE HOTEL. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



33 



This portion of the city is new, and is growing very rapidly. Fortunately, Chestnut Street 
and its neighbors on the south have been almost monopolized by the suburban residences of 
wealthy citizens, who have adorned their homes with spacious grounds, with trees and flowers 
and have planted shade-trees along the streets ; so that this neighborhood is now, and must 
ever remain, a lovely blending of all that is most beautiful in city and country. 

In this section of the city stand the handsome buildings of the University of Pennsylvania. 
This institution was chartered as a charity school and academy in 1750, and was erected 
into a college in 1755, and into a university in 1779. It was first located on Fourth Street, 







PRESBYTERIAN BOARD OF PUBLICATION. 

below Arch, but was removed to Ninth Street in 1798, and until 1872 occupied two large 
buildings which stood on the site of the new Post-Office. The old buildings having become 
inadequate to its wants, the present magnificent structures of serpentine marble were erected, 
and occupied in 1872. They form one of the handsomest groups of college buildings in the 
United States, 

The University is divided into academical, collegiate, medical, and law departments, and 
among its faculty are numbered some of the most distinguished men in the State. 

The junction of Thirty-sixth Street, Darby Road, and Locust Street was selected as the 

3 



34 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




CHESTNUT STREET, ABOVE FIFTEENTH, SHOWING THE REFORM CLUB HOUSE. 

best location for the new buildings of the University. The trustees have erected for the 
accommodation of the Department of Arts and of Science one of the largest and most con- 




THIRTV-NINTH AND WALNUT. 



I 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



35 




UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA. — DEPARTMENTS OF ARTS AND OF SCIENCE. 

veniently arranged college buildings in the country. This building stands in a square of 
ground containing more than six acres, and is about two hundred and sixty feet front, by more 




UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA. — MEDICAL DEPARTMENT. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




than one hundred in depth. It 
was planned with special reference 
to the greatly increased number of 
rooms required for the full develop- 
ment of that elective system of 
studies which has now become the 
settled policy in the Department of 
Arts, as well as for the purpose of 
affording every facility for teaching 
science in its applications to the arts. 

The students in these two depart- 
ments are under a common govern- 
ment and discipline, and are in 
constant association with each 
other. The instruction, however, 
in each department is in charge of 
a distinct faculty, and both the 
objects of that instruction and the 
methods of imparting it differ es- 
sentially. 

The Law Department has its lect- 
ure-rooms in the building of the De- 
partments of Arts and of Science. 

For the use of the Department of 
Medicine the trustees have erected 
a building of very large dimensions, 
which is arranged for the conven- 
ient accommodation and instruc- 
tion of students in accordance with 
plans based upon long experience 
here, and which is supplied with all 
the approved means of research 
and investigation. 

Adjoining this building is a large 
hospital, which is placed in charge 
of the medical faculty. This hos- 
pital will prove an invaluable means 
of clinical instruction. It has ac- 
commodations for between one 
and two hundred patients, with 
private rooms for patients of means. 

In this connection we would men- 
tion the Jefferson Medical College, 
an institution of corresponding im- 
portance, established in 1825. Its 
building stands in Tenth Street, 
below Chestnut, and is furnished 
with every facility for the instruction 
of students. The trustees propose 
to erect a larger building shortly, 
to meet the increasing wants of 
the college. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



37 



WALNUT STREET. 

Walnut Street, the chosen haunt of the coal trade, and, to a great extent, of the insurance 
business, presents many points of interest. The anthracite coal trade of the Lehigh and 
Schuylkill regions, which is so important a feature of the domestic industry of Pennsylvania, 
centres in the lower part of this street, a large four-story building of brown stone, on the 
corner of Second and Walnut, being entirely given up to this business, and filled with the 
offices of coal firms. It is known as "Anthracite Block." 




PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD COMPANY S BUILDING. 



A little below Third Street, Walnut Street is crossed diagonally by Dock, and in the trian- 
gular space bounded by Third, Dock, and Walnut stands the magnificent building of the 
Merchants' Exchange. It is an imposing edifice, built of Pennsylvania marble, and, from its 
conspicuous position, forms the most prominent feature of this part of the city. The spacious 
rotunda on its eastern side has recently been fitted up in a sumptuous manner for the use of 
the Board of Brokers. 



38 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




DELAWARE MUTUAL SAFETY INSURANCE COMPANY'S BUILDING. 

On the southeast corner of Third and Walnut Streets stands the building of the Delaware 
Mutual Safety Insurance Company. At the time it was erected, more than twenty years since, 
it was one of the handsomest corporation buildings in the city. This company is one of the 




READING RAILROAD COMPANY S RUILDING. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



39 




PHILADELPHIA SAVINGS FUND. 



most reliable in the city, with assets amounting to over two millions ; its business covers the 
three classes of insurance, — marine, inland, and fire. 

Passing the Sunday Dispatch _,^.=^^^ ^s^ "^ 

office, on the corner of Third Street, 
we pass an almost unbroken file of 
coal offices, until we reach Fourth 
Street, and here we turn the corner 
into Fourth to visit the splendid 
new offices of the Pennsylvania 
and the Philadelphia and Reading 
Railroad Companies, which stand 
side by side on the east side of 
Fourth Street, below Walnut. 

The office of the Pennsylvania 
Railroad was built in 187 1-2. It is 
of brick, with an elegant front of 
Quincy granite, and of dimensions 
adapted to the business of a corpo- 
ration which owns and controls 
more miles of rail than any other 
m the world. The immense extent 
of this company's operations is too 
well known to need repetition here. 

The office of the Reading Rail- 
road was so much enlarged and 
improved during the summer and 
fall of 1 87 1 as to make it, in effect, 
a new building. This, the second 
road in importance in the State, 
taps the rich deposits of anthracite 
coal in the Southern and Middle 
Coal-fields, and carries to market building of the franklin fire insurance go. 




40 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




WESTERN SAVINGS BANK. 



an average of five million tons annually. In 1870 it absorbed the Germantown and Norris- 
town Railroads, and now conducts an enormous passenger traffic over both. 

Above Fourth Street, on the north side, we pass, among other substantial buildings, that of 
the Franklin Fire Insurance Company, well known as one of the most reliable companies in 




EAST RITTENHOUSE SQUARE. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



41 



this country. Its charter is perpetual, dating from 1829, and its assets now amount to nearly 
three and a half millions. 

Continuing up Walnut Street, we pass on the left of what was once the " State-House Yard," 
but has since been named " Independence Square." It is of small dimensions, and, though 
the trees are lofty and green overhead, the ground beneath them has been beaten hard by 
the tread of countless feet crossing it in every direction, and has little that is park-like in 
its appearance. 

Not so, however, with Washington Square, which is diagonally opposite Independence 
Square, and which has already been described at length. 

Outside the railing of this square, on the line with Seventh Street, is a stone fountain sur- 
mounted by an eagle standing on a globe, which is noteworthy as being the first of those 




TWENTY-FIRST AND WALNUT 



benevolent structures in providing which the Philadelphia Fountain Society has already earned 
the gratitude of thousands of thirsty men and suffering beasts. 

This society was formed in February, 1869, and erected its first fountain in the succeeding 
April. From that time to the close of 1874, seventy-three fountains were erected through its 
efforts, many of them being the gifts of individuals or of societies other than that having the 
work in special charge, but all given at its instance and through its influence. 

The following extract from the society's report for 1874 gives an idea of the important work 
it is doing: " Here we have a truthful estimate of the number of persons and horses drinking 
at ten of our fountains in twelve consecutive hours, amounting to 4885 persons and 1831 horses, 
which, taken as an average of the seventy-three fountains now in active operation over the city, 
would give you the gratifying aggregate in twelve hours of 35,660 persons and 13,366 horses." 

What might be termed another benevolent institution, though it is so according to the sound 
commercial rule of benefiting both parties, is the Philadelphia Savings Fund Society, whose 
building stands on the corner of Walnut Street and West Washington Square. This society. 



42 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



the first of its kind in the country, was estabhshed in 1816, and has ever since been eminently 
successful. All its earnings are appropriated for the benefit of the depositors, with the excep- 
tion of the amount necessary to meet the working expenses. From a small beginning, the 
business of the institution has gradually increased, until now its depositors number thirty-nine 
thousand, and their united deposits exceed ten million dollars. 

We give also a view of another similar institution, that of the Western Savings Fund, at Tenth 
and Walnut. 

Trade has not yet pushed its way on Walnut Street beyond this point. From here long rows 
of substantially-built houses, whose very exteriors have an air of comfort about them, as if they 
would hint at the ease and plenty within, stretch away almost to the Schuylkill. 




TWENTY-SECOND AND WALNUT. 

At Eighteenth and Walnut Streets is Rittenhouse Square, one of the finest of the public parks. 
It is adorned with elaborate drinking-fountains, the gifts of wealthy philanthropists, and is 
surrounded by elegant and costly dwellings, this being one of the most aristocratic quarters of 
Philadelphia. An especially noticeable residence is that of Joseph Harrison, Jr., on the east 
side of the square, a view of which is herewith presented. 

Two of the finest Walnut Street houses are shown in the accompanying cuts. The first is 
that of John Rice, the builder of the Continental Hotel and of a number of other buildings. 
This is situated on the corner of Twenty-first and Walnut. It is of white marble, from the 
Lee quarries, and is in the Italian style of architecture. The second, on the corner of Twenty- 
second and Walnut, also of white marble, is the residence of George W. Childs, the well-known 
and successful proprietor of the Public Ledger. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



43 



ARCH STREET. 

Arch Street, though a wide and handsome avenue, has never found its course obstructed 
by such a tide of travel and traffic as surges through Market Street. It has always been an 
eminently " respectable" street, and a certain air of old-time gentility still invests it ; one feels 
that, in passing from Market to Arch, he has unconsciously stepped back fifty years into the 




ARCH STREET, BETWEEN SEVENTH AND EIGHTH. 

past ; the roar and hurry of to-day have given way to the steady-going, quiet ways of the 
earlier years of the century, and he would scarcely be surprised to see a gentleman in powdered 
wig, knee-breeches, and three-cornered hat descending from any one of the stately dwellings 
whose uniform brick fronts, green shutters, and marble steps are the representatives of, if not 



44 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



the foundation for, the monotonous Philadelphia which satirical visitors are fond of depicting. 
The lower part of the street has, indeed, been invaded, to a certain extent, by the bustling life 
of commerce ; but west of Eleventh Street all is quiet, and the street is lined with the dwellings 
of the merchant princes of the city. 

Consequently, we have few points of interest to note here. In our walk up-street, we stop, 
of course, to look through the iron railing set in the wall of Christ Church burying-ground, at 
Fifth and Arch, and pay our homage to the grave of Benjamin Franklin ; and we cannot fail 
to notice, as we pass, the ancient Friends' Meeting-House which stands on the south side of 




AliCH SREET THEATRE. 

the street, between Third and Fourth, surrounded by a yard whose dimensions suggest the 
good old times of its erection, when land was plenty and taxes light. This meeting-house was 
built in 1808. It is the successor of one which stood in High Street, and has ever since been 
one of the principal places of worship of the Quakers in Philadelphia. This denomination, 
being that to which Penn and his followers belonged, was, naturally, the first to erect a place 
of worship. " The Great Meeting-House," as it was called, at the corner of Second and High 
Streets, was erected in 1695, on land bestowed by George Fox, " for truth's and Friends' sake." 
"Great as it was," says Watson, "it was taken down in 1755, to build greater;" and in 1808 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



45 



the "street noise of increased population" drove the worshipers to the quiet retreat on Arch 
Street, where they still find themselves able to worship without disturbance. 

A httle above Sixth Street we pass Mrs. John Drew's Arch Street Theatre, one of the standard 
places of amusement in the city. Its interior arrangements are excellent. The auditorium will 
seat eio-hteen hundred persons, and the dimensions of the stage, sixty-seven feet square by 
thirty feet high, give convenient room for representations. 




ST. CLOUD HOTEL. 

Another square westward, we come to the St. Cloud Hotel, a new and excellent house, and 
very convenient to the business part of the city. 

Still farther on we find two other places of amusement, — the Museum, on the corner of Ninth, 
and Simmons and Slocum's Opera House, a few doors above Tenth. 

On Arch, above Tenth, are the Methodist Book Rooms,— the Mecca of Methodist pilgrims, 
— and at Broad and Arch are the stately churches elsewhere spoken of. 

The rest of the street is "living-room;" it is filled with the homes of the people, with few 
exceptions, presenting a remarkable sameness of appearance and size. 



46 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



BROAD STREET. 




This noble avenue has been described 
in the earUer part of this work ; but it 
remains to point out some of the many 
objects of interest which border it. 

Its southern terminus is at League Is- 
land, — a low tract of land at the junction 
of the Delaware and Schuylkill, which 
was presented by the city of Philadelphia 
to the United States government, a few 
years ago, for the purposes of a naval 
depot, — a use for which it is admirably 
adapted. The report of the Secretary of 
the Navy, for 1871, thus tersely sums up 
its advantages : 

"A navy yard so ample in its proportions, in 
the midst of our great coal and iron region, easy 
of access to our own ships, but readily made 
inaccessible to a hostile fleet, with fresh water 
for the preservation of the iron vessels so rapidly 
growing into favor, surrounded by the skilled 
labor of one of our chief manufacturing centres, 
will be invaluable to our country." 

Comparatively little work has yet been 
done at League Island ; but enough is in 
progress to show what may be expected 
in the future. A wharf sufficient to ac- 
commodate the largest sized vessels has 
been built ; a receiving ship and two or 
three others are stationed there ; and the 
narrow, fresh-water '" Back Channel" 
which separates the island from the main- 
land affords excellent accommodation for 
the monitors, — a large fleet of those pe- 
culiar craft being usually anchored in its 
placid waters. 

Crossing the back channel by a draw- 
bridge, Broad Street extends northward 
through a low, flat tract of land which is 
now occupied by truck-farms, and which 
will require much labor to fit it for build- 
ing purposes. Two rows of trees have 
been planted in the drive along this part 
of the street, and these will in a few years 
afford three leafy avenues for carriages. 
The city is growing but slowly in this 
direction, its chief extension being to the 
north and west; but the influence of 
League Island may draw builders south- 
ward when the works are fairly under way. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



The first building of importance which 
we notice in going north on this street is 
the Baltimore Depot, at Broad and Prime. 
We give the most familiar designations 
of public objects in this work, as those 
are the ones strangers will wish to know. 
The " Baltimore Depot" is, to give it the 
benefit of its full title, the depot of the 
Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore 
Railroad ; but that is a name too long 
for daily use ; and for the same reason 
the inquirer is always directed to the now 
unknown Prime Street, instead of the 
spacious Washington Avenue, on the 
corner of which the building really stands. 
This depot is reached by the cars of the 
Thirteenth and Fifteenth Streets line, and 
by the green cars of the Union line, the 
latter running down Seventh Street. 

Many handsome churches diversify the 
street to the north of the Baltimore Depot, 
but it is impossible to mention all in detail. 

On the corner of Pine Street we pass 
the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, — a charity 
incorporated in 1821 by the State of Penn- 
sylvania, which has ever since been its 
chief patron, though the States of Mary- 
land, New Jersey, and Delaware also 
contribute to its support and claim a 
share in its benefits. 




BETH-EDEN CHURCH. 




AMERICAN ACADEMY OF MUSIC. 



48 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



One square above, we pass 
the magnificent "Beth-Eden" 
Baptist Church, one of the 
handsomest on Broad Street, 
even without the spire, which 
is still wanting to complete 
the symmetry of the design. 
Now the places of interest 
crowd thick and fast upon the 
visitor's attention. Just above 
Beth-Eden Church is Horti- 
cultural Hall, — the chosen 
home of the Pennsylvania 
Horticultural Society, a ven- 
erable institution, and, like 
so many other Philadelphia 
enterprises, the first of its 
kind in the country, having 
been established in 1827. It 
has always been one of the 
most popular societies in 
Philadelphia, and its annual 
displays, held first in Peale's 
Museum and afterwards 
under canvas pavilions in 
one of the public squares, 
were once the most fashion- 
able entertainments in the 
city. Nor have they lost 
their attraction yet; for at 
stated seasons they fill the 
HORTICULTURAL HALL. spacious auditorium of the 

hall to suffocation with visitors who come to feast their eyes upon the rare floral and pomo- 
logical treasures there displayed. 





NEW ACADEMY OF NATURAL SCIENCES. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



49 



Next door to Horticultural 
Hall, and so near to it that on 
grand festive occasions both 
buildings are leased and con- 
nected by a temporary bridge, is 
the American Academy of Mu- 
sic, the most capacious opera- 
house in the United States. This 
building was completed January 
26, 1857. and dedicated on that 
day by the most magnificent ball 
Philadelphia had ever witnessed. 
Since that time it has been a 
favorite hall with all the leadir 
musicians, actors, and lecture 
who have appeared in Americ; 
Its architecture is of the Italia 
Byzantine school, such as is fre- 
quently seen in the northern 
parts of Italy. The auditorium 
is one hundred and two feet 
long, ninety feet wide, and sev- 
enty feet high, and will seat twenty-nine hundred persons, besides providing standing room 




UNION LEAGUE BUILDING. 




LA PlhRRL HOUSE 

for about six hundred more The arrangements both for seemg and hearmg are excellent ; its 
acoustic properties being extolled by all who have appeared on its stage. All the other 



5° 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



appointments of the building are on a scale commensurate with the immense size of the audi- 
torium, and go to make up one of the most complete and magnificent opera-houses in the world. 
Following in regular order after the Academy of Music, and on the same side of the street, 
is the well-known building of the Union League. This association grew out of a " Union 
Club" which was formed in 1862 for promoting friendly intercourse among loyal people. The 
organization of the Union League was effected in December, 1862, and it at once took an active 

part in all public meas- 
ures. It enlisted for the 
United States Army ten 
full regiments of troops, 
distributed over two mil- 
lion six hundred thou- 
sand copies of Union 
documents, and claimed 
to have carried the State 
of Pennsylvania for the 
Republican party by its 
efforts in the important 
election of 1863. 

In May, 1865, the pres- 
ent League building was 
finished, at a cost, inclu- 
din,g furniture, of about 
two hundred thousand 
dollars. It is of brick, in 
the French Renaissance 
style, with faqades of 
granite, brick, and brown 
stone. It has all the ap- 
pointments of a first-class 
club-house, and as such 
has many patrons, the 
list of members at the 
present time numbering 
nearly two thousand. 

The most prominent of 
the other social clubs arc 
the Reform Club, which 
occupies a handsome 
white marble fronted 
building on Chestnut 
Street, above Fifteenth, 
and the Philadelphia 
Club, occupying the 
building at Thirteenth 
and Walnut Streets. 

Next above the Union League building is an unpretentious and certainly far from handsome 
building, which at present contains the museum of the Academy of Natural Sciences. 

This society dates from the year 181 2, when it was founded by a few gentlemen for mutual 
study into the laws of nature. A museum and library were among the first requisites, and steps 
were early taken to establish both. The latter now contains about tAventy-three thousand 
volumes, and the former upwards of two hundred and fifty thousand specimens, representing 




NEW MASONIC TEMPLE. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



5' 




THE PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



every department of zoology, geology, and botany. There are sixty-five thousand mineral- 
ogical and paleontological specimens, with a very rich collection of fossils. The botanical 
collection is immense ; that of shells is only excelled by the cabinet of the British Museum ; 




NEW ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS. 



52 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




and the collection of birds is both 
rich and attractive. It consists of 
more than thirty-one thousand 
specimens, and is probably un- 
equaled by any collection in 
Europe. 

This museum has outgrown the 
building in which it is placed, and 
steps are now being taken to erect 
a building adequate for its wants. 
A lot has been secured at Nine- 
teenth and Race Streets, and on it 
the fine building of which we pre- 
sent a view will be placed as soon 
as the necessary funds can be ob- 
tained. The great value of the 
museum, and the utter inadequacy 
of its present quarters either to dis- 
play or to preserve it, will doubtless 
bring the citizens of Philadelphia 
to its assistance at an early day. 
Even in the present building, how- 
ever, visitors to the city should by 
no means fail to see it. It is open 
to the public on Tuesday and 
Thursday afternoons, at ' which 
times an entrance fee of ten cents 
is charged. 

Next door to the Academy of 
Natural Sciences stands the La 
Pierre House, one of the best hotels 
in the city. It is six stories high, 
and will accommodate two hundred 
guests. We now cross Chestnut 
Street, glance at the Corinthian 
porticos of two Presbyterian 
churches, on the east side of Broad 
Street, one above and the other be- 
low Chestnut Street, and in a mo- 
ment reach the new Public Buildings 
for law-courts and public offices. 

This enormous structure, though 
a single building, is always spoken 
of in the plural. It was begun on 
the loth of August, 1871, and, it is 
estimated, will cost ten years' time 
and ten million dollars to complete. 
When finished, it will be the largest 
building in America, and probably 
the highest in the world, being 
486.] feet in length, north and south, 
and 470 feet in width, east and west. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 53 



The central tower will rise to the height of 450 feet, a greater height than any other spire in the 
world. The area actually covered will be nearly 4J acres, not including a court-yard in the 
centre, 200 feet square. Around the whole will be a grand avenue 205 feet wide on the northern 
front, and 135 feet on the others. The general style of the building is the Renaissance, modi- 
fied to suit the purposes for which it is required. The basement story will be of finfe white 
granite, and the superstructure of white marble from the Lee quarries, the whole strongly 
backed with brick and made perfectly fireproof. The structure will contain 520 rooms, and 
afford ample provision for the present and future needs of its occupants. Its erection is in 
charge of a commission, of which Samuel C. Perkins is chairman, and the architect who 
drew the plan and has charge of the work is John McArthur, Jr. 

Near the northwest corner of these buildings is one of the many noble charities that Phila- 
delphia can boast of. This is the School of Design for Women, the only institution of the kind 
in America. It was founded in 1848, by Mrs. Peter, for the purpose of educating women to 
extend their sphere of usefulness and open to them a new and pleasant means of support. In 
a great manufacturing city there is a constant demand for new and elegant designs for all 
branches of mechanic art. The School of Design trains women for this work, instructing them 
gratuitously, and seldom failing to make them experts in the business of mechanical drawing. 

In a year or two this part of Broad Street will be unequaled in the State for the number and 
beauty of its public edifices. On the corner of Filbert Street the New Masonic Temple rears 
its stately head high above the neighboring houses. It is built of granite, dressed at the quarry, 
and brought to the temple ready to be raised at once to its place ; so that what was said of 
Solomon's temple may be said with almost equal truth of this : " There was neither hammer 
nor ax nor any tool of iron heard in the house, while it was in building." 

This temple is one hundred and fifty feet in breadth by two hundred and fifty in length, 
with a side elevation of ninety feet above the pavement, its colossal proportions making it 
seem low even at this height. A tower two hundred and thirty feet high rises at one corner. 
The entire building is devoted to Masonic uses, there being nine lodge-rooms, together with a 
library and officers' rooms. 

Adjoining the Masonic Temple on the north is the Arch Street Methodist Episcopal Church, 
the handsomest church of this denomination in the city. The intersection of Broad and Arch 
Streets is, indeed, noteworthy for its churches. The pure white marble of the Methodist 
Church, on the southeast corner, the rich brown stone of the First Baptist Church, on the 
northwest corner, and the green syenite of the Lutheran Church, on the southwest corner, 
present a group of architectural beauty scarcely to be surpassed in any city. 

At this point occurs an interruption of the usual magnificent display of Broad Street, — a 
region of warehouses and lumber-yards, which once threatened to be permanent, but to which 
the removal of the railroad tracks from Broad Street gave a death-blow ; so that we may .now 
hope to see their places occupied before long by structures in keeping with the magnificent 
plan of the street. Nevertheless, it must be confessed that, at the present writing. Broad Street 
from Arch to Callowhill is not a pleasant thoroughfare. The new Academy of Fine Arts, now 
building at Broad and Cherry, will do much for this part of the street. 

At Callowhill Street we come to the passenger depot of the Philadelphia and Reading Rail- 
road, and just above it, but on the opposite side of the street, the extensive buildings of the 
Baldwin Locomotive Works, an establishment which boasts the proud distinction of being the 
largest, as it is among the oldest, of its kind in th: world. 

Spring Garden Street, which bounds the Baldwin Locomotive Works on the north, is one of 
a few streets which deserve special notice for the generous manner in which they are laid out. 
From Twelfth to Broad a beautiful little park occupies the centre of the street, — which is nearly 
or quite as wide as Broad Street itself, — and this will probably be continued all the way to 
Fairmount Park, in a few years. Below Twelfth the street is occupied by a long line of market- 
houses. Beyond Broad Street it is lined by fine, comfortable residences, some of which are 
strikingly handsome. The row in which W. B. Bement's house stands, above Eighteenth 



54 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



Street, shown in our illustration, is especially noticeable. Girard Avenue is laid out in the 
same way. A granite monument erected' April 19, 1872, by the Washington Grays, to the 
memory of their fallen comrades, stands in the centre of the avenue, just below Broad. 

On the southwest corner of Broad and Green Streets we pass the Central High School, — a 
plain but not inelegant brick edifice, — and on the northwest corner a handsome Presbyterian 
church, built in the Norman style of architecture. Beside this stands the Jewish synagogue 
Rodef Shalom, a good specimen of the Saracenic style, and a very handsome though very 
peculiar building. 

Above this point, the section of Broad Street extending from Fairmount Avenue to Columbia 
Avenue, a distance of about a mile, is lined with handsome private residences, and is a favorite 
drive and promenade. On Sunday afternoons the sidewalks are crowded with promenaders, 
and the whole presents a scene of life and animation strikingly in contrast with the sabbath 
stillness of the rest of the city. 

A general idea of the appearance of the street may be formed from the view on page 57, 
in which is embraced the handsome residence of Joseph Singerly. It is an exemplification of 
what all Broad Street is capable of being made, and what it may reasonably be expected to 
become in the near future. 




SCENL: ox north broad t>lKl:,i:,i, AliOVE MASTER. 



We also present views of two of these strikingly handsome dwellings, that of Richard Smith, 
on Broad above Master, and that of Henry Disston, on Broad above Jefferson. 



56 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



The splendid Episcopal church of the Incarnation, at Broad and Jefiferson, and several other 
fine buildings in the immediate vicinity, close the list of objects of interest on Broad Street for 
the present. Montgomery Avenue is the northern limit of continuous building on this street 




SCENE ON NORTH BROAD STREET, ABOVE JEFFERSON. 

just now; but the noble boulevard continues straight as an arrow northward, the houses are 
fast following it, and it cannot be very many years before it will be crowded with stately build- 
ings all the way to Germantown. 



THE CEMETERIES. 



It is impossible in a work of this kind to dt) justice to the many beautiful cemeteries in 
which repose the dead of the great city. We, can, however, direct the visitor to a few of the 
more prominent ones, and assure him that a visit to them will be a source of gratification. 
We use the word advisedly, for few more pleasant spots can be found in the vicinity of Phila- 
delphia than its burial-places, fitted up as they are with equal taste and elegance. 

Laurel Hill Cemetery is confessedly the leading cemetery of Philadelphia in size, location, 
and beauty of adornment. It is situated on a sloping hillside bordering on the Schuylkill ; 
the extensive grounds are skillfully laid out ; and the monuments and other decorations are 
as elaborate as affection could suggest or munificence bestow. The ground is divided into 
three sections, known as North, South, and Central Laurel Hill, — the last being the most 
recently added of the three. The plan of the company by which this cemetery was estab- 
lished was to provide for its patrons a resting-place which should be theirs forever, without 
fear of molestation or disturbance by the ever-lengthening city streets and the ever-growing 
city trade, and which they might therefore ornament freely with substantial and enduring 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



57 




58 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




THE SCHUYLKILL RIVER FROM NORTH LAUREL HILL. 

monuments. The idea was well carried out in the selection of a site little available for 
business purposes, and now secured forever by its incorporation within the bounds of Fair- 
mount Park ; and it was quickly appreciated by the citizens. The result is shown in the 




UF THE SCHUYLKILL FROM WEST LAUREL HILL. 



» 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



59 



;;:;;;;;r^earance of the grounds, and in the fact that South Laurel Hill and two other 
sections of ground have been added. On the opposite side of the nver. about a mile above 




th. on-inal Laurel Hill, is West Laurel Hill Ccmeter^ an institution entiicly distinct from 
die original, and controlled by a separate corporation, but yet owned and officeied to a 



6o 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



large extent by the same individuals. In its arrangement the fundamental idea of an 













LIEUTENANT GREBLE S MONUMENT, WOODLANU CEMETERY. 

isolated and permanent burial-place has been kept in view, if possible, more fully than ever 
before. 



t 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



6i 



West Laurel Hill Cemetery is the latest enterprise of the kind connected with the city, 
having been incorporated in November, 1869. It is situated on the west side of the Schuylkill, 
in Montgomery County, a short distance from the boundary-line of the incorporated city. 

At present West Laurel Hill contains one hundred and ten acres, but the charter permits 
its increase to three hundred acres. Under the management of persons long familiar with 
the work done at the original Laurel Hill, it is rapidly assuming a beautiful appearance. 

A number of smaller cemeteries are situated in the vicinity of Laurel Hill, and some im- 
portant ones are located in parts of the city which have still a rural aspect. Monument 
Cemetery, which was founded in 1837, two years after Laurel Hill, is situated at Broad and 
Berks Streets, and is remarkable for a fine granite monument to the joint memories of Wash- 
ington and Lafayette, which stands in the centre, and gives name to the cemetery. Still nearer 
to Laurel Hill are Mount Peace, Mount Vernon, Glenwood, and several society cemeteries. 




THE DKEXKL AlAL .SOLKUM. 

Cathedral Cemetery, the great burying-ground of the Roman Catholic denomination, is 
located on Forty-eighth Street, between Girard Avenue and Wyalusing Street, in West Phila- 
delphia. It was consecrated to the purposes of sepulture in 1849, being named after the 
Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, which was then building. This cemetery includes forty- 
three acres, and contains some elegant monuments. An outgrowth of this, the New Cathedral 
Cemetery, is situated at Second Street and Nicetown Lane, in the northeastern part of the city. 

Mount Moriah Cemetery is on Kingsessing Avenue, about three miles from Market Street, 
and is reached by the Darby line of horse cars running out Walnut Street. It is quite large, 
and is very liberally supplied with both natural and artificial attractions. 

The same line of cars passes Woodland Cemetery, one of the most attractive rural burying- 
grounds in the city. Of the many imposing monuments in this cemetery, we present a view 
of the beautiful mausoleum of the Drexel family, which-is noted for its elegance of design — 
being the handsomest structure of its kind in this country — and its fine location, and one of 
the chaste monument erected to the memory of Lieutenant John T. Greble, the first officer of 
the regular army to fall in the Rebellion. 



62 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



63 



FAIRMOUNT PARK. 




Fairmount Park, new though it is, has already attained a reputation second only to that 
of Central Park, New York, and only second to that because Fairmount is not yet old enough 
to be as widely known. 

Fairmount needs no eulogist. It speaks for itself; and the stranger who, with this book for 
his guide, will spend a summer day — or, better still, a week — in leisurely and appreciative 
exploration of its hills and dales, its leafy woodlands and sunny slopes, its rippling streams 
and placid river, its dewy sunrise and dreamy sunset, and the glory of its moonlight vistas, 
will permit no tongue to sound its praises louder than his own. 

We preface our description of it with a few dry facts and figures which it will be well to bear 
in mind. 

Fairmount Park arose from the necessity for a supply of pure water, the deterioration of 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




MONUMENT ERECTED TO THE MEMORY OF FREDERICK GRAFF. 

which threatened to become not only an evil but a grievous calamity. The mills and 

manufactories on the banks of the 
Schuylkill were multiplying rapidly, 
and there was great danger that in 
the course of a very few years the 
river-banks for miles above the city 
would be lined with factories and 
workshops, to the utter ruin of the 
stream on which the citizens de- 
pended for their supply of pure 
water. 

Just in time to prevent this catas- 
trophe, Fairmount Park was con- 
ceived, and by degrees executed, 
until now five miles of the river and 
six of its beautiful and important 
tributary the Wissahickon, together 
with the high lands bounding their 
immediate valleys, are inclosed and 
preserved forever from all pollution 
and profanation. 

The Park now contains nearly 
three thousand acres, being more 
than three times as large as the New 
York Central Park. It is dedicated 
to be a public pleasure-ground for- 
ever, and, under the management 
of a Board of Commissioners, is 
rapidly growing in beauty and in- 

EAST TERRACE, LEMON HILL. tcrest. 




PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



65 



The visitor will take a street-car on Pine, Arch, or Vine Street, — all of which lines run to the 
bridge at the lower end of the Park, while the two last named connect and run on to George's 
Hill, at its western extremity ; or a car of the Green and Coates Streets line, which runs 




THE LINCOLN MONUMENT. 



from Fourth Street, via Walnut, Eighth, and Fairmount Avenue, to the Fairmount Avenue 
entrance ; or a yellow car of the Union line, passing up Ninth Street and landing him at the 




VIEW ON THE SCHUYLKILL, SHOWING THE BOAT-HOUSES AND LEMON HILL. 

Brown Street entrance ; or a Ridge Avenue car, which will carry him to the East Park ; or, if 
well up town, a Poplar Street or Girard Avenue car, which will deposit him at Brown Street and 
Girard Avenue respectively. The Lancaster Avenue branch of the Chestnut and Walnut 



66 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



67 



Streets line runs to the Centennial grounds in the West Park, and a branch of the Market 
Street line will be extended to the same point this year. All these termini, except the extreme 
western and northern ones, are in the immediate vicinity of Fairmount Water-Works, at the 
lower end of the Park. Another route is by the Park accommodation trains of the Philadelphia 
and Reading Railroad, which in summer run every hour during the day and carry passengers 
from the depot at Thirteenth and Callowhill to Belmont, on the west side of the Schuylkill. 
Accommodation trains on the Pennsylvania Railroad also run to Hestonville, within a short 
walk of George's Hill, at the western end of the Park. 

Lastly, the visitor can hire a carriage by the day and make the tour of the Park without 
fatigue or difficulty ; and for mere sight-seeing this is much the best way. 

Entering the Park at the lower entrance, we step at once into the grounds pertaining to the 
Scliuylkill Water-Works ; and the works 
themselves are contained in the building, 
or rather group of buildings, just before us. 
These works were first put in operation in 
1822, though the city was first supplied with 
water from the Schuylkill in 1799. Enor- 
mous engines worked by water-power force 
water from a dam in the river to the top of 
a hill in front of the building, — the original 
" Faire-Mount," — where it is held in a dis- 
tributing reservoir. The same works supply 
a reservoir on Corinthian Avenue, near 
Girard College. From a piazza in the rear 
of the building a good view is obtained of 
the new and elegant "double deck" iron 
truss bridge which has just taken the place of 
the once celebrated Wire Bridge. This new 
bridge is one of the most elaborate structures 
of its kind m this country. It was designed 
by J. H. Linville, and erected by the Key- 
stone Bridge Company. The total length of 
the superstructure is 1274 feet, the main span, 
over the river, being 350 feet. The bridge 
has an upper and lower roadway and side- 
walks, and is 48 feet in width; the upper 
roadway is elevated 32 feet above Callowhill 
Street, and connects Spring Garden Street 
on the east with Bridge Street on the west. 
The lower roadway connects Callowhill 
Street with Haverford Street. 

The grounds immediately surrounding the buildings of the Water- Works contain several 
fountains and pieces of statuary. The monument in our cut is that of Frederick Graff, the 
designer and first engineer of the works. Just above the Water- Works is a little dock, whence 
in summer a couple of miniature steamers ply incessantly on the river, stopping at all points 
of interest on their route. 

The main drive of the Park begins at Green Street, passing, just inside of the entrance, a 
new building designed for an art gallery, and thence running down nearly to the bank of the 
Schuylkill. 

Next, crossing an open space ornamented by a bronze statue of Lincoln, erected by the 
Lmcoln Monument Association, in the fall of 187 1, we come to another hill, covered with trees, 
among which go winding paths, and under which green grass and flowering shrubs combine 




FOUNTAIN NEAR BROWN STREET ENTRANCE. 



68 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



their attractions, while around the base of the hill flowers bloom and fountains play, and the 




CONNECTING RAILROAD BRIDGE, FAIRMOUXT PARK. 

curving drive leads a glittering host of carriages. This is Lemon Hill, and on its summit is 
the mansion in which Robert Morris had his home during the Revolutionary struggle. Here 
the great financier loved to dwell. Here he entertained many men whose names were made 




FAIRMOUNT PARK, FROM PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD BRIDGE. 

illustrious by those stirring times. Hancock, Franklin, the elder Adams, members of the 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



69 




ENTRANCE AT EGGLESFIELD. 



merly called "Sedgely Park." 
Here stands a small frame build- 
ing known as "Grant's Cottage," 
because it was used by that gen- 
eral as his head-quarters at City 
Point. It was brought here at the 
close of the war. 

From this hill there is an excel- 
lent view of the Schuylkill Water- 
Works, which stand in a ravine 
just beyond it. At its foot is the 
Girard Avenue Bridge, an elegant 
iron structure, the work of Clarke, 
Reeves & Co., of the Phoenix Iron 
Works, which connects the East 
and West Parks. This bridge was 
opened for travel July 4, 1874. It 
is locHD feet long by 100 feet wide, 
and 52 feet above mean water mark. 
It consists of five spans constructed 
of Pratt trusses. The roadway is 
of granite blocks, and is 67J feet 
wide, and the sidewalks, each 16.} 
feet wide, are paved with slate, with 
encaustic tile borders. The balus- 
trade and cornice are ornamented 



Continental Congress, officers of the 
army and navy, and many of the 
foremost citizens met frequently 
under this hospitable roof. Here, 
busy in peace as in war, he after- 
wards planned those magnificent 
enterprises which were his finan- 
cial ruin; and from here he was 
led away to prison, the victim of 
laws equally barbarous and absurd, 
which, because a man could not pay 
what he owed, locked him up lest 
he might earn the means to dis- 
charge his debt. 

The fortunes of the once magni- 
ficent mansion have fallen, like 
those of its magnificent owner. It 
is now a restaurant,where indifferent 
refreshments are dealt out at corre- 
spondingly high prices ; for it is an 
axiom that men pay most for the 
worst fare. 

Next, following the carriage- 
drive, which, beginning at the 
Green Street entrance, runs up the 
river, we come to a third hill, for- 




-P^^^J;/^^w^,V/4/g0///^ / 



/• 



VIEW OF SWEET BRIER FROM EGGLESFIELD. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



7> 



with bronze panels representing 
birds and foliage. Under this 
bridge passes a carriage-way 
leading to the northeast portion of 
the Park, now called, by way of 
distinction, the East Park. The 
Connecting Railroad Bridge, as it 
is popularly termed, which unites 
the Pennsylvania Railroad with the 
Camden and Amboy, raises its 
graceful arches a little above the 
Girard Avenue Bridge, and through 
the rocky bluff which forms its 
eastern abutment a short tunnel 
has been cut, as the only means of 
opening a carriage-road to the East 
Park. This route was opened in 
the summer of 1871, ana developed 
some of the loveliest scenery in all 
the Park. A number of fine old 
country-seats were absorbed in this 
portion of the grounds, and they 
remain very nearly as their former 
owners left them. Here a dis- 
tributing reservoir, to cover one 
hundred and five acres, is now 





SCHUYLKILL BLUFFS, BELOW EDGELY. 



VIEW ABOVE SWEET BRIER. 



being constructed. Continuing 
up this side of the river, we come 
finally to Laurel Hill Cemetery, and 
then to the massive stone bridge 
over which the coal-trains of the 
Reading Railroad pass on their 
way to Richmond. 

We shall, however, find more 
marks of improvement by crossing 
the Girard Avenue Bridge into the 
West Park. 

Below the Bridge, on the west 
side, is a tract called "Solitude," 
and in it stands an ancient house 
built by John Penn, son of Thomas 
Penn and grandson of William, 
and owned by his descendants un- 
til its purchase by the Park Com 
missioners. Just beyond this, the 
tall stand-pipe of the West Phila- 
delphia Water-Works forms a con- 
spicuous feature. 

This tract, containing thirty-threfe 
acres, has been leased by the Park 
Commissioners to the Zoological 
Society of Philadelphia, which has 



72 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




THE MONKEY HOUSE. 

fitted it up in a manner best suited for the maintenance and exhibition of birds and animals. 
The Society intends establishing here a Zoological Garden second to none in the world, and is 




a HE LL \.R Fllb. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



73 




...A — 

THE AVIARY. 



rapidly carrying out its designs. It has agents in every part of the globe, from whom it receives 
frequent shipments of rare and interesting specimens of natural history, and is fast filling its 




THE COLUMBIA BRinGE. FROM THE WEST PARK. 



74 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



grounds with specimens of every class of the animal kingdom. Every part of the garden is 





SWEET BRIER RAVINE. 



THE LANSDOWNE PINES. 



interesting, but we may mention as the principal features the large and well-filled Carnivora 
and Monkey-Houses, the Bear Pits, the Aviary, and the Deer Park. All of these are already 




LOOKING EAST FROM BELMONT. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



75 



well stocked, and are constantly receiving fresh accessions. The Garden was first opened to 
the public in July, 1874, and has already become one of the most popular features of the Park. 
The price of admission is 25 cents for adults, and 10 cents for children. 

A short distance above the bridge is the Children's Play-ground, near Sweet Brier Mansion, 
and passing this the road enters Lansdowne and crosses 
the river road by a rustic bridge, from which the beautiful 
view of the Schuylkill shown in our engraving is had. 

The venerable pines shown in our sketch mark the site 
of Lansdowne Concourse. This fine estate of Lansdowne 
contained two hundred acres, and was established by John 
Penn, "the American," whose nephew, also named John, 
the son of Richard Penn, built a stately 
mansion here, and lived in it during the 
Revolutionary war, a struggle in which his 
sympathies were by no means with the party 
that was finally successful in wresting from 
him the noble State which was his paternal 
inheritance and of which he had been 
Governor. 







UP THE SCHUYLKILL, FROM COLUMBIA BRIDGE. 



Leaving the Concourse, the road skirts the base 
of Belmont Reservoir, and, winding round a rather 
steep ascent, comes out on the summit of George's Hill, 
two hundred and ten feet above high tide. 

This tract, containing eighty-three acres, was presented 
to the city by Jesse and Rebecca George, whose ancestors had 
held it for many generations. As a memorial of their generosity, 
this spot was named George's Hill, and its rare advantages of scenery 
and location will keep their name fresh forever. It is the grand 
objective point of pleasure-parties. Few carriages make the tour of the Park without taking 
George's Hill in their way, and stopping for a few moments on its summit to rest their horses 
and let the inmates feast their eyes on the view which lies before them, — a view bounded 
only by League Island and the Delaware. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




In the broad meadow which Ues at the 
visitor's feet as he stands on George's 
Hill, looking eastward, it is proposed to 
hold a grand Centennial Exhibition 
during the centenary year of American 
Independence. It has been decided that 
Philadelphia — the birthplace of liberty — 
shall be the place in which a grateful 
country will celebrate its hundredth 
birthday; and there can be no better 
place to hold the grand exhibition of the 
fruits of a hundred years' progress by 
which the anniversary is to be celebrated 
than the one already selected. A quar- 
ter of a mile of track will enable the 
Pennsylvania Railroad to set down the 
products of all the Western and Southern 
States under the roof of the buildings, in 
the very cars in which they were first 
packed, and all the contributions of the 
Far East without breaking bulk except 
in the transfer from steamer to rail at 
San Francisco ; while goods coming from 
Atlantic ports can be unloaded on the 
Schuylkill within sight of their destina- 
tion. There will be more trouble in 
bringing heavy articles from some of the 
manufactories of Philadelphia herself 
than from California or Minnesota. 

The Centennial grounds cover 450 
acres, and extend from the foot of 
George's Hill almost to the Schuylkill 
River, and north to Columbia Bridge 
and Belmont jMansion. On the level 
space known as the Lansdowne Plateau, 
at the intersection of Elm and Belmont 
Avenues, the- principal exhibition build- 
ings are now being erected. The Main 
Building is a parallelogram 1880 feet in 
length by 464 feet in width, and 70 feet 
in height, with central towers 120 feet 
high. It covers, with its towers and 
projections, an area of twenty-one and a 
half acres. It is of iron and glass, and 
shows in the interior one grand hall 
seventy feet in height, with a central 
pavilion rising to the height of 96 feet. 
A central avenue 120 feet wide runs the 
whole length of the building, and there 
are two side aisles of the same length 
and 100 feet in width. These are in- 
tersected by three transepts, or cross 
avenues, of like width, thus dividing the 
plan into nine open spaces free from 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




78 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



supporting columns, and covering in the aggregate an area 416 feet square. The lesser aisles 
are 48 feet in width. The arrangement of the goods is by a cross system of classification, 
by which all the products of a country are ranged in a line, side by side, with similar products 
of all other countries. 

The Art Gallery, or Memorial Hall, is located about 300 feet north of the Main Building, on 




A VIEW IN THE WEST PARK. 



i line parallel with it. This is a permanent structure, all the others being temporary. It is 
of granite, iron, and glass, built in the modern Renaissance style, and thoroughly fire-proof. 
It is 365 feet in length, 210 in width, and 59 in height, with a central dome 150 feet high, 
surmounted by a colossal bell, on which stands a figure of Columbia. Colossal figures, 
typifying the four quarters of the globe, stand at each corner of the base of the dome. 
The interior arrangement consists of a central hall, with galleries extending east and west, 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



79 



the whole forming one grand hall 287 feet long, 85 feet wide, and 35 feet in height, except 
in the centre, where the dome rises to the height of 80 feet. This hall will contain 8000 
persons. Smaller halls, galleries, and studios are also provided for. 

But we cannot dwell even on so fruitful a theme as the Centennial Exhibition. The carriage- 
road next brings us to Belmont Mansion. This, like most of the buildings in the Park, is of 
very ancient date, having probably been erected about 1745. 




A VIEW ON THE WISSAHICKON. 

This was the home of Richard Peters — poet, punster, patriot, and jurist — during the whole of 
his long life. Many of his witty sayings are still extant, as are also a number of his poems ; 
while his eminent services as Secretary of the Board of War during the Revolution, Represent- 
ative in Congress subsequently, and Judge of the United States District Court for nearly half his 
life, will not soon be forgotten. Brilliant as have been the assemblages of distinguished guests 
at the many hospitable country-seats now included within the bounds of Fairmount Park, the 



8o 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



associations connected with Belmont Mansion outshine all the rest. Washington was a 
frequent visitor ; so was Franklin ; so were Rittenhouse the astronomer, Bartram the eminent 
botanist, Robert Morris, Jefferson, and Lafayette, — of whom a memento still remains in the 
shape of a white-walnut-tree planted by his hand in 1824. Talleyrand and Louis Philippe 
both visited this place ; "Tom Moore's cottage" is just below, on the river-bank; and many 
other great names might be mentioned in connection with Belmont, if we had room for them. 
Now, alas ! the historic mansion has degenerated into a restaurant. 




FALLS BRIDGE, SCHUYLKILL RIVER. 



The view from the piazza of the house is one which can scarcely be surpassed in America. 
Our engraving, though drawn by one of the first landscape painters in the country, gives but 
a faint idea of its beauty. It is one of those grand effects of nature and art combined which 
man must acknowledge his inability to represent adequately on paper. 

Leavino- Belmont, the road passes through a comparatively uninteresting section to Cha- 
mouni, with its lake and its concourse, and the northern limits of the Park. Near the lake 
it intersects the Falls road, and this takes us down to the Schuylkill, which we cross by a 
bridge, and continue up the east bank of the river to its junction with the Wissahickon. 



PHILADELPHIA .AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



8i 



One of the most beautiful walks in the Park extends from this point through Belmont Glen to 
the Reading Railroad and the banks of the Schuylkill. It debouches at the offices of the Park 
Commission, where the visitor's eye is attracted by a pair of colossal bronzes, representations 
of the winged horse "Pegasus." These figures were made to adorn the Grand Academy in 
Vienna, but were found to be too large for the position assigned them. They were purchased 
by a number of American gentlemen, and presented to the Park ; where they will eventually 
mount guard at one of the main 
entrances. 

The Falls of Schuylkill exist 
only in history now, but before the 
Fairmount dam was built they 
were a beautiful reality. The 
cascade, which was formed by a 
projecting ledge of rock, was 
slight, but in seasons of high 
water it made a fine display. 

A little above the Falls is the 
"Battle-Ground," — the scene of 
an intended battle between the 
Americans under Lafayette and 
the British under General Grant. 
The latter, however, unlike his 
distinguished modern namesake, 
allowed himself to be outgeneraled, 
and Lafayette succeeded in exe- 
cuting a masterly retreat, — that 
being the only thing he could do 
under the circumstances. Here, 
also, was fought the memorable 
and disastrous battle of German- 
town. 

The Wissahickon is a lovely 
stream winding through a narrow 
valley between steep and lofty 
hills which are wooded to their 
summits, and have the appear- 
ance of a mountain-gorge 
hundreds of miles from civilization, 
rather than a pleasure-retreat 
within the limits of a great city. 

In its lower reaches the stream 
is calm and peaceful, and boats 
are kept at the two or three small 
hostelries which stand on its 
banks, for the convenience of 

those who wish to row on the placid waters. This calm beauty changes as the valley ascends, 
and we soon find the stream a mountain torrent, well in keeping with its picturesque situation 
and surroundings. So with alternate rush of torrent and placid beauty of calm reaches the 
romantic stream flows down from the high table-lands of Chestnut Hill to its embouchure in 
the valley of the Schuylkill. 

A few manufacturing establishments have invaded the sequestered valley; but the Park 
Commissioners have taken measures to do away with them all after a certain number of years, 

6 




WISSAHICKON CREEK. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




UP THE WISSAHICKON — MEGARGEE S PAPER MILL. 

and restore the Wissahickon as nearly as possible to its pristine wildness and unfettered beauty. 
One of these invaders — Edward Megargee's paper mill — is shown in our illustration. Like 
most of the others, it is now owned by the city, but will be operated by the heirs of its late 
owner until the year 1882, after which it will be removed. 




THE WISSAHICKON — BRIDGE AT VALLEY GREEN. THE WISSAHICKON — BRIDGE NEAR MT. AIRY. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



83 






THE PIPE BRIDGE OVER THE WISSAHICKON. 

We may briefly notice a few of the many points of interest in this romantic glen, some of 
which our artists have sketched in a manner which renders pen-and-ink descriptions super- 
fluous. 

Soon after leaving the Schuylkill, the drive up the Wissahickon passes the "Maple Spring" 
restaurant, where a curious collection of laurel-roots defdy shaped into all manner of strange 
or familiar objects, the work of the proprietor, will repay a visit. 

A little above this, a lane descends through the woods to the "Hermit's Well, which is said to 




PRO BONO PUBLICO. 



UP THE WISSAHICKON. 



S4 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



have been dug by John Kelpius, a German Pietist, who settled down here, with forty followers, 
two hundred years ago, and lived a hermit's life, waiting for the fulfillment of his dreams. 
He and his associates gave names to many of the scenes about here, among them the Hermit's 
Pool, of which we give an illustration. 

Three and a half miles above its mouth the stream is crossed by a beautiful structure called 
the Pipe Bridge, six hundred and eighty-four feet long and one hundred feet above the creek. 
The water-pipes that supply Germantown with water form the chords of the bridge, the whole 




THE WISSAHICKON AT CHESTNUT HILL. 

being bound together with wrought-iron. It was designed by Frederick Graff, and constructed 
under his superintendence. A hundred yards above this is the wooden bridge shown in our 
engraving. Near this is the Devil's Pool, a basin in Creshein Creek, a small tributary of the 
Wissahickon. 

The next point of interest is the stone bridge at Valley Green, and half a mile beyond this 
is the first public drinking-fountain erected in Philadelphia. It was placed here in 1854, and 
was the precursor of a numerous and beneficial following. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



85 




UP THE WISSAHICKON — THE DRIVE. 

A mile and a half of rugged scenery ensues, terminating in the open sunlight and beautiful 
landscapes of Chestnut Hill, where the end of the Park is reached. 

Watson, in his "Annals of Philadelphia," speaks thus of "The Wissahickon :" 
"This romantic creek and scenery, now so much visited and familiar to many, was not long since an extremely 
wild, unvisited place, to illustrate which I give these facts, to wit: Enoch and Jacob Rittenhouse, residents there, 
told me in 1845 that when they were boys the place had many pheasants; that they snared a hundred of them 



I 




THE WISSAHICKON — THE HERMIt'S POOL. 



HEMLOCK GLEN- 



86 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



in a season ; they also got many partridges. The creek had many excellent fish, such as large sunfish and perch. 
The summer wild ducks came there regularly, and were shot often ; also, some winter ducks. They then had 
no visitors from the city, and only occasionally from Germantown. There they lived quietly and retired ; now 
all is public and bustling, — all is changed!" 

The natural beauties of Fairmount Park are now its chief attraction, but these can be 
greatly enhanced by the discreet addition of works of art in the shape of statues, fountains, 




GLEN FERN, WISSAHICKON. 



busts, etc. We are happy to state that a society under the name of the Fairmount Park Art 
Association has recently been established with the object of facilitating this adornment, and 
already embraces a large number of prominent citizens among its members. It should be the 
pride of every citizen to encourage its efforts. This Association has already erected several 
handsome bronze pieces, and placed a fine marble statue and several paintings in the Art 
Gallery in the Park. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



87 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



There are many objects of 
interest in the city which are 
not enumerated in this work, 
our object being to sketch only 
the principal ones. 

No visitor should fail to see 
the Navy Yard, in the southern 
part of the city, with its immense 
ship-houses, floating and dry- 
docks, shops, and arsenal, and 
the noble vessels constantly 
lying at its wharves. Cars run 
down Second, Fourth, Sixth, 
and Seventh Streets every few 
minutes, the last named con- 
veying passengers to the gate 
of the yard, and the others pass- 
ing within a short distance of it. 
Admission is free to all parts of 
the yard, and passes to go on 
board the vessels can be readily 
procured at the commander's 
office, just inside the gate. The 
rows of ordnance, stacks of 
balls, and especially the arsenal, 
with its relics, will interest the 
visitor. 

The huge yet elegant build- 
ings of the Franklin Sugar Re- 
finery, at Delaware Avenue and 
Almond Street, a short distance 
above the Navy Yard, form a 
conspicuous object, and cannot 
fail to attract the visitor's atten- 
tion. 

As might be supposed, the 
Delawai'e, with its broad stream, 
deep channel, and abrupt bank, 
is the chosen home of the ship- 
ping interest, while thQ. Schuyl- 
kill is still waiting for the time 
to come when its shores will be 
needed to relieve the eastern 
wharves. 

Next above the Navy Yard 
are the grain wharves of the 
Pennsylvania Railroad, with a 
large elevator overlooking 




88 



PHILADELPhIA AND 2TS ENVIRONS. 



them ; and from these to Kensington there is a constant succession of shipping wharves, many 

of which have great local fame. 

Among these are Spruce Street 
wharf, the great oyster depot ; 
Dock Street wharf, famous for 
peaches ; Chestnut and Market, 
the great passenger wharves, where 
we may take boats up or down the 
river or across to Camden ; \'ine 
Street wharf, the terminus of the 
Camden and Atlantic Railroad, 
whence in summer-time thousands 
depart daily for a run down to the 
beach, 

" To cool them in the sea ;" 

Willow Street wharf, which is one 
of the termini of the Reading 
Railroad, and near to which the 
extensive freight depots of the 
Reading and the North Penn- 

r. . 

i sylvania roads stand harmoniously 
: side by side ; and Poplar Street 
wharf, with its huge stacks of 
-• lumber, covering acres of s^round. 
One of the most extensive of these 
C- yards is represented in the accom- 
;; panying view ; Smith «S: Harris's 
^ Lumber Yard, at Coates Street 

wharf, is also shown. 
E In this neighborhood, at Front 
and Laurel Streets, stands an 
imposing monument to energy, 
industry-, and perseverance. The 
Keystone Saw, Tool, Steel, and 
File Works of Henry Disston & 
Sons, started in a cellar by the 
senior member of the firm some 
thirty-five years ago, have de- 
veloped into the establishment 
shown in our illustration, which 
covers eight acres of ground with 
its numerous factories, employing 
over one thousand hands. Here 
saws of every description, with 
their component parts, also tools, 
files, etc., are manufactured at the 
rate of five tons daily. This firm 
has extensive branch works at 
Tacony and a branch house at 
Chicago, and may be well termed 
the pioneer factory of its kind in America, and is the largest saw factor)- in the world. 




PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



89 



Kensin-ton is the head-quarters of the shipbuilding interest in the city proper; though there 
are tirst-dass yards, turning out excellent work, at Kaighn's Point. Chester Wilmington, 
and other points on the Delaware, all of which come properly under the head of Philadelphia 

^"^ATthese yards are generally busy, the amount of shipbuilding done on the Delaware 
forminc. no inconsiderable portion of the city's industrial showing. The firm of Wm. Cramp 
& Sons at Kensington, has won much fame by the amount of first-class work turned out from 
its yard's It was here that the huge iron ships of the American Steamship Company, the iron 




FRANKLIN SUGAR REFINERY. 



colliers of the Philadelphia and Reading Railroad Cpmpany, and many other important vessels 
were built. 

The labyrinthine system of wharves and docks at Port Richmond, where the coal from the 
Schuylkill mines is transhipped from the cars of the Philadelphia and Reading Railroad to the 
vessels which are to carry it still farther for a market, is just above this point, and is well 
shown in our illustration. This is a busy, animated, and interesting scene. 

Philadelphia hitherto has aspired little to the title of a commercial city, but has been con- 
tent with being the largest manufacturing centre in the United States. Now, however, active 
exertions are being made to establish a commerce, and there can be little doubt of their 
ultimate success. Already the house of WiUiam P. Clyde & Co. has lines of steamers running 



90 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




VINE STREET FERRY, TERMINUS OF THE CAMDEN AND ATLANTIC RAILROAD. 

to Boston, New York, Wilmington, Baltimore, and all the principal points on the South 
Atlantic and Gulf coasts of the United States ; and several other firms have lines nearly as 




VIEW OF THE POPLAR STREET LUMBER WHARVES. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



91 



extensive ; while the American Steamship Company has four steamers 
Liverpool, and the steamers of two European 
lines also ply regularly to this port. 

Kensington also contains many important 
iron works and other manufacturing establish- 
ments ; but the locality favored by the heaviest 
workers in iron is that formerly known as 
" Green Hill," extending from Thirteenth to 
Eighteenth Streets, on the line of the Reading 
Railroad. Here are the Baldwin Locomotive 
Works before mentioned, the Norris Locomo- 
tive Works, William Sellers & Co.'s Machine 
Tool Works, having deservedly a world-wide 
reputation, and several other establishments 
whose names are known all over the Union. 
And at Twenty-first and Callowhill, still in the 
same busy region, are the extensive machine 
shops of William B. Bement & Son. Several 
of these extensive establishments are repre- 
sented among our engravings. 

When we say that the values of Philadelphia 
manufactures in 1873 footed up the respectable 
total of over three hundred and eighty-four 
million dollars, that nine thousand mills, found- 
ries, and factories combined to produce this 
result, and that one hundred and forty-five 
thousand operatives, assisted by steam-engines 
aggregating about seventy-five thousand horse- 
power, did the work, the reader will see that a 
detailed account of the manufactures of the city 
is scarcely to be expected in a work of this 
size. 

Suffice it to say, then, that iron articles of 
any size or shape, from a tack-hammer to a 
three-thousand-ton steamer, can be supplied in 
any quantity by the manufactories of Phila- 
delphia. 

Other industries exist in equal proportion. 
Manayunk, on the Schuylkill, is alive with 
paper-, cotton-, and woolen mills ; all the other 
suburbs contain large industrial works ; and, 
indeed, the whole city is one vast workshop, 
in which the visitor can spend many days 
pleasantly and profitably, viewing the varied 
operations of all the departments of its industry. 

We present a view of one of the laboratories 
of Powers & Weightman, the leading manufac- 
turers of chemicals in the country. This is 
situated at the Falls of Schuylkill. They have 
another extensive establishment at Ninth and 
Parrish Streets, in the city proper. 

We also present a view of MacKellar, Smiths & Jordan's type-fou 



making regular trips to 




oldest existing 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




type-foundry in the United 
States, as well as one of the 
largest. The business of the firm 
was founded in 1796, by Binnv 
& Ronaldson, and has steadily 
grown to its present size and 
importance. Our engraving 
gives a good view of the lower 
part of Sansom Street, with In- 
dependence Square in the back- 
ground. 

Cornelius & Sons' establish- 
ment, the largest manufactory of 
gas-fixtures in the United States, 
is well shown in our cut. This 
building is on Cherry, above 
Eighth, and is one of the many 
handsome manufactories which 
adorn the heart of the city. 
This firm has also a handsome 
store on Chestnut Street, below- 
Broad. 

At the corner of Fifth and 
Cherry Streets is the large and 
imposing factory of W. H. Horst- 
mann & Sons, of which a view is 
presented. Established in 181 5, 
this concern has for years been 
the most extensive manufacturers 
of military and society goods, 
dress and upholstery trimmings, 
etc., in this country. 

The city takes good care of 
the army of working-people en- 
camped in her midst. Not only 
does she afford them comfortable 
homes at moderate cost to an 
extent unequaled in any other 
city, but she also provides liber- 
ally for their comfort when sick, 
for their mental improvement 
when in health, for their recrea- 
tion when at leisure, and for their 
children at all times. 

The oldest and most important 
of the hospitals of the city is the 
Pennsylvania Hospital, which 
was founded in 1750. It is lo- 
cated in the square bounded by 
Eighth, Ninth, Spruce, and Pine 
Streets, and may be visited after 
10 A.M. on any day except Sat- 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



93 




VIEW ON THE DELAWARE— A CLYDE STEAMSHIP. 



urday and Sunday. Another similar institution is the Episcopal Hospital, in the northeastern 
part of the city. 

The city Almshouse is on the west side of the Schuylkill, nearly opposite the Naval 
Asylum, and is reached by the Walnut Street cars. The grounds contain 179 acres, and the 



I 




VIEW OF THE SCHUYLKILL AT THE FALLS. 



94 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



estimated value of the property is about $3,000,000. The buildings themselves occupy about 

ten acres, and will accommodate 
conveniently 3000 inmates. 

The United States Naval Asylum 
is 'on Gray's Ferry Road, below- 
South Street. It is a beautiful 
place, and forms a snug harbor 
for the gallant seamen who have 
grown old and feeble in their 
country's service. 

The Wills Eye Hospital, on Race 
Street, opposite Logan Square, is 
a finely situated charity, which 
does a great deal of good in an 
unobtrusive way. 

For the establishment of Girard 
College, a work magnificent alike 
in purpose, plan, and execution, 
Philadelphia is indebted, as for so 
many other benefits, to Stephen 
Girard. 

This eccentric but benevolent 
man made provision in his will 
for the erection of a college which 
should accommodate not less than 
three hundred children, who must 
be poor, white, male orphans, be- 
tween the ages of six and ten 
years. For the site of the college, 
Mr. Girard bequeathed an estate 
of forty-five acres, called Peel 
Hall, situated on the Ridge Road, 
about a mile from its junction with 
Ninth and Vine Streets; and here 
the buildings were erected, the sum 
of two million dollars having been 
provided by the founder for the 
establishment and support of the 
institution. The capacity of the 
present buildings is five hundred 
and fifty, and that is about the 
number of the inmates now. 

The College proper is justly 
celebrated as one of the most 
beautiful structures of modern 
times, as well as the purest speci- 
men of Grecian architecture in 
America. It has been so often 
described that we deem it un- 
necessary to give more than a 
pictorial sketch of it. The monu- 
ment, of which we give an illustration, was erected in 1869 to commemorate those of the 




PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



95 



It was desic^ned and huilt bv 



,^ 



K^.: 



»^: 



;« 



College graduates who fell in the war of the Rebellion. 
W. Struthers & Son, the largest 
dealers in worked marble in the city. 
Visitors will procure tickets of ad- 
mission at the Ledger office, and 
take the Ridge Avenue cars. 

Philadelphia has supplemented 
her admirable educational system 
by establishing a number of excel- 
lent public libraries, only one of 
which, however, the Apprentices' 
Library, at Fifth and Arch, \4 en- 
tirely free to its patrons. Of the 
others, the handsomest building is 
that containing the Mercantile Li- 
brary, on Tenth Street, between 
Chestnut and Market. 

We present a view of the Cathe- 
dral of St. Peter and St. Paul, on 
Eighteenth Street, opposite Logan 
Square. The corner-stone of this 
magnificentbuilding.the finest Cath- 
olic church in the city, and up to the 
present date the finest in the United 
States, was laid by the Right Rev. 
F. P. Kenrick, September 6, 1846, 
and it was opened for divine service 
November, 1864. The edifice is 
one hundred and thirty-six feet front, 
two hundred and sixteen feet deep, 
and two hundred and ten feet in 
total height. The interior of the 
building is cruciform, and is de- 
signed in the most elaborate Roman- 
Corinthian style. 

Logan Square, opposite which the 
Cathedral stands, is surrounded 
with fine dwellings, and bears the 
same relation to this part of the city 
as Rittenhouse Square does to the 
southern portion. 

The seminary of St. Charles Bor- 
romeo, near Overbrook Station, on 
the Pennsylvania Railroad, about 
five miles from the city, is for the 
instruction of those who intend to 
devote themselves to the ministry 
of the Roman Catholic Church in 
the diocese of Philadelphia. Its 
architecture is of the Italian order. 

We also present a view of the Central Congregational Church, at Eighteenth and Green 
.Streets, a new and handsome edifice, the architecture of which is in the late Norman style. 




L 



96 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



For the protection of the honest portion of the community, it has always been found neces- 
sary to place restraints upon the wicked ; and there are in Philadelphia several illustrations of 
what is frequently extolled as "the admirable prison system of Pennsylvania." 

The Eastern Penitentiary, to which convicts are sent from the eastern counties of the State, 
is on Coates Street, near Twenty-second. The "separate" {7wt solitary) system of confine- 
ment is adopted here, but is modified to the extent of confining two prisoners in each of the 




SANSOM STREET AND INDEPENDENCE SQUARE. 

larger cells whenever the crowded state of the prison renders it necessary. Each prisoner ife 
furnished with work enough to keep him moderately busy, and is permitted to earn money 
for himself by overwork. He is allowed to see and converse with the chaplain, prison- 
inspectors, and other officials, and an occasional visitor, but not with any of his fellow- 
prisoners. The advantages claimed for this system are that convicts have leisure and 
opportunity for reflection and for the formation of steady and correct habits, and are not in 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



97 







CHERRY STREET, ABOVE EIGHTH. 



danger, when set free, of meeting other prisoners who can identify them and thus obtain a 
fearful influence over them. 




L 



FIFTH AND CHERRY STREETS — HORSTMANN S BUILDING. 
7 



9^ 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




THE PENNSYLVANIA HOSPITAL. 

The grounds connected with this prison cover about eleven acres, nearly all of which space 
is covered with buildings, the whole being surrounded with a stone wall thirty feet high. The 
plan of the buildings may be compared to a star with seven rays, there being a central hall 
with seven corridors running from it, so arranged that the warden, sitting in the centre, has 
the whole length of each corridor under his eye. 

Permits to. visit any of the prisons in the city can be obtained at the Ledger office. Visitors 
to the Eastern Penitentiary will take the Green and Coates Streets cars (running out Eighth 
Street), or the yellow cars of the Union line, running out Ninth and up Spring Garden. 




VIEW OF THE SCHUYLKILL RIVER AND liLOCKLEV ALMSHOUSE. 



I 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



99 



The Eastern Penitentiary is frequently called "Cherry Hill," from the former name" of its 
site ; and for the same reason the County Prison, at Tenth and Passyunk Avenue, is generally 
known as " Moyamensing." Visitors to this prison will take cars on Tenth or Twelfth Street, 
or the green cars of the Union line, on Seventh Street. 

The House of Refuge, for juvenile offenders, is on Twenty-second Street, near Poplar. 




soldiers' monument at girard college. 

Visitors are admitted every afternoon, except Saturday and Sunday. Take the Green and 
Coates, Poplar Street, or Ridge Avenue cars, — the last running up Arch to Ninth and out 
Ninth to Ridge Avenue. The green and red cars of the Union hne, running out Ninth Street, 
connect with the Poplar Street line, and passengers ride through for one fare. 

The new House of Correction, recently built near Holmesburg, in the northern part of 
the city, is shown in our illustration. This building is to contain two thousand cells, and its 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



erection is contracted for by R. J. Dobbins, the eminent builder, for the sum of one miUion 
dollars. 




GIRARD COLLKCIE. 



The green cars of the Union line, running out Ninth Street, and the red cars of the Second 
and Third Streets line, running out Third Street, both convey passengers to Richmond, where 
the coal wharves of the Philadelphia and Reading Railroad are situated. 




THE MERCANTILE LIBRARV. 



The Germantown Railroad will carry the visitor in a few minutes to two of the most delight- 
ful suburbs of which the city can boast. These are Germantown and Chestnut Hill, both 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



filled with beautiful country-seats, and rendered doubly interesting by historical associations. 




INTERIOR VIEW OF THE MERCANTILE LIBRARY. 

We regret that we have not space to enumerate their most prominent points of interest; but 
all we can do is to recommend the stranger to make the visit for himself. We present, 





SEMINARY OF ST. CHARLES BORROMEO. 



however, as a specimen of the architecture in this part of the city, a view of the residence 
of Thomas MacKellar, at Germantown. The "Old York Road," too, running through 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



the northwestern part of the city, passes through a beautiful rolling country studded with 
elegant country-seats, of which one of the finest — that of R. J. Dobbins — is shown in our 
illustration. 

Once an hour a car starts from the depot of the Second and Third Streets line at Richmond, 
and runs to Bridesburg. The ride from Richmond to Bridesburg is made in forty minutes, 
the route lying through a pleasant country, filled with country-seats and small farms, and 
having the Delaware for a boundary the entire distance. The car stops within a short dis- 




CATHEDRAL OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL. 

tance of the Frankford Arsenal, belonging to the United States Government. It is open to 
visitors during the day ; but it is best to visit it during the forenoon, as the shops close at 
4 P.M., and the length of time consumed in reaching it leaves a very small margin for sight- 
seeing in the afternoon. 

The visitor crosses a little bridge, over Frankford Creek, the boundary -line between 
Bridesburg and Frankford, walks up a well-paved sidewalk along the wall of the Arsenal, 
and a polite officer on duty at the gate directs him to the office, where a pass to visit the 
shops is given him. The grounds are open, and he may wander at will along the paths. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS, 



103 




*• . •»'i«i'i.\\-!i>\ -JiTsr 



MOVAMEXSING PRISON". 

These grounds cover sixty-two and a half acres, are beautifully situated and laid out, and are 
kept in perfect order. A few brass field-pieces, and some long piles of cannon-balls stacked 






THE NEW HOISL OF CORRECTION, HOLMCSBURG. 



I04 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




CENTRAL CONGREOAIIONAI. CHURCH. 



up like Stone fences on New- 
England farms, with a solitary 
sentinel pacing his beat, and the 
stars and stripes floating overhead, 
are the only things that suggest the 
warlike uses of the place. The 
shops are devoted solely to the 
manufacture of fixed ammunition ; 
all the cartridges used by the United 
States army are made here, and, as 
may be supposed, the late war 
taxed the energies of the labora- 
tories to their utmost capacity. 
During the height of the war, work 
in these shops never stopped. 
Night and day, Sundays and holi- 
days, it werit on, the demand con- 
stantly increasing, until Lee's 
surrender stopped midway the 
erection of an additional building 




K GEKMANTOWN RESIDENCE. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



105 




A RESIDENCE AT CHELTON HILLS, ON THE "OLD YORK ROAD." 



calculated to turn out one million cartridges a day. That building is finished now, and ready 
for the next call. 

The manufacture of cartridges is an interesting process, and well worth seeing, and the 
visitor will scarcely regret the five-mile ride required to visit the Arsenal. 

In this vicinity the visitor's eye will be attracted by the tall chimney of the Bridesburg 




WORKS OF THE BRIDESBURG MANUFACTURING COMPANY. 



Io6 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 




THE HARRISON BOILER WORKS. 

Manufacturing Company's Works, an establishment celebrated for cotton and woolen ma- 
chinery, but diverted during the war from this peaceful business to the manufacture of guns 
and other warlike weapons. 

Another United States Arsenal is situated near the Naval Asylum, on Gray's Ferry Road. 
This is devoted to the manufacture of shoes, clothing, etc. It is reached by the cars of the 
Spruce and Pine and Lombard and South Streets railways, and just beyond it are the exten- 
sive buildings of the Harrison Boiler Works, shown in our engraving. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



107 



PLACES OF INTEREST. 



^ Academy of Fine Arts — Broad and Cherry. 

iit^ Academy of Natural Sciences — Broad, below 

f Chestnut. Open Tuesday and Friday afternoons. 

Admission, 10 cents. 
American Philosophical Society — Fifth, below 

Chestnut. 
^^' Apprentices' Library — Southwest corner Fifth and 

Arch. 
^'''^ATHENvtiTM and Historical Society of Penn- 
sylvania — Sixth and Adelphi, below Walnut. 
Blind Asylum — Twentieth and Race. Admission to 

Wednesday afternoon concerts, 15 cents. 
Blockley Almshouse — West Philadelphia. Take 

Walnut Street cars to Thirty-fourth Street. Tickets 

at 42 North Seventh Street. 
Carpenters' Hall — Chestnut, below Fourth. 
Christ Church — Second, above Market. 
Commercial Exchange — Second, below Chestnut. 
County Prison, or " Moyamensing" — Eleventh and 

Passyunk Road. Tickets at Ledger office. 
Custom-House— Chestnut, above Fourth. 
Eastern Penitentiary — Fairmount Ave. above 

22d. Tickets at Ledger office. Take cars out Fair- 
mount Ave., or Fairmount cars of the Union line. 
Episcopal Hospital — 2649 North Front Street. 
Frankford Arsenal — Frankford. Take Richmond 

horse-cars. 
Franklin Institute — Seventh, above Chestnut. 
Franklin's Grave — Southeast corner Fifth and 
r Arch. 

.^^^irard College — Ridge Avenue, above Nineteenth 

Street. Tickets at Ledger office. Take Ridge 

Avenue or Nineteenth Street cars. 
House of Correction — Holmesburg. 
House of Refuge — Twenty-second, near Poplar. 

Admission every afternoon, except Saturday and 

Sunday. Tickets at Ledger office. Take Fairmount 

cars of Union line. 
" Hultsheimer's New House"— Southwest corner 

Seventh and Market. 
Independence Hall— Chestnut, between Fifth and 

Sixth. Entrance to steeple granted on application 

to the Superintendent, in the Hall. 
Institution for the Deaf and Dumb— Broad 

and Pine. Exhibitions Thursday afternoons. Tickets 

at Ledger office. 
Laurel Hill Cemetery— Ridge Avenue. Take 

Ridge Avenue cars. 
League Island — Foot of Broad Street. 
Ledger Building— Si.xth and Chestnut. 



London Coffee-House— Southwest corner Front 

and Market. 
Masonic Hall (old) — 710 Chestnut; (new) Broad, 

below Arch. 
Mayor's Office — Fifth and Chestnut. 
Mercantile Library — Tenth, above Chestnut. 
Merchants' Exchange — Third and Walnut. 
Monument Cemetery — Broad Street, opposite 

Berks. 
Mount Vernon Cemetery — Nearly opposite Laurel 

Hill. 
Northern Home for Friendless Children— 

Twenty-third and Brown. Take Union line of cars 

out Ninth Street (Fairmount Branch). 
Old Swedes' Church — Swanson Street, below 

Christian. Take Second Street cars. The Navy 

Yard is in this vicinity. 
Penn Treaty Monument— Beach Street, above 

Hanover. Take street-cars marked " Richmond." 

The same cars pass the extensive coal wharves of 

the Reading Railroad, at Richmond. 
Penn's Cottage — Letitia Street, between Front and 

Second, near Market. 
Pennsylvania Hospital— Eighth and Spruce. 
Pennsylvania Hospital for the Insane — Hav- 

erford Road, West Philadelphia. Tickets at Ledger 

office. Take Market Street cars. 
Philadelphia Dispensary (oldest institution of 

the kind in America, having been established in 

1786)— 127 South Fifth Street. 
Philadelphia Library and Loganian Library 

— Fifth, below Chestnut. 
Post Office (old) Chestnut, below Fifth; (new) 

Ninth and Chestnut. 
School of Design for Women — Northwest Penn 

Square. 
Union League House — Broad and Sansom. Vis- 
itors admitted on being introduced by a member of 

the League. 
United States Mint — Chestnut, above Thirteenth. 

Admission from 9 to 12 A.M., daily, except Saturday 

and Sunday. 
United States Naval Asylum — Gray's Ferry 

Road, below South. Take cars out Pine or South 

Streets. 
University of Pennsylvania — Thirty-si.xth and 

Darby Road. 
Woodland Cemetery — Darby Road, West Phila- 
delphia. Take Darby cars, or Walnut Street cars 

to Thirty-ninth Street. 



Admission to the above, free, except where otherwise stated. 



io8 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 



Academy of Music — Broad and Locust. 
Arch Street Theatre— Arch, west of Sixth. 
Chestnut Street Theatre — Chestnut, above 

Twelfth. 
Concert Hall — Chestnut, above Twelfth. 
Eleventh Street Opera House — Eleventh, above 

Chestnut. 
Fox's American Theatre— Chestnut, above Tenth. 



Grand Central Theatre— Walnut, above Eightli 
Horticultural Hall — Broad, below Locust. 
Museum— Ninth and Arch. 
Musical Fund Hall— Locust, below Ninth. 
Simmons and Slocum's Opera House— Arch 

above Tenth. 
Walnut Street Theatre— Ninth and Walnut. 



RAILROAD DEPOTS. 



Camden and Atlantic Railroad — Vine Street 

Ferry. 
North Pennsylvania Railroad — Berks and 

American Streets, above Second. 
Pennsylvania Central Railroad— Thirty-first 

and Market, Kensington, and Market Street Ferry. 



Philadelphia and Reading Railroad— Thir- 
teenth and Callowhill ; Gertnatitown and Norristown 
Branch, Ninth and Green. 

Philadelphia, Wilmington and Baltimore 
Railroad — Broad and Washington Avenue. 

West Chester and Philadelphia Railroad— 
Thirty-first and Chestnut. 



PHILADELPHIA AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



109 




BLOOMSDALE. 

Great, and varied to an extent almost unexampled elsewhere, are the natural resources 
and industrial interests of Pennsylvania. 

In mineral and other deposits none can compare with her; in the mechanism and skill 
which converts her ores from their crude condition into the ponderous, delicate, or minute 
forms useful to man, her sons are not excelled within or without the Union. 

The ingenuity of Pennsylvania artisans is, in every branch of industry, almost world-wide ; 
her locomotives traverse every road in Europe, and her iron ships, afloat and being- built 
(a comparatively new outlet for her enterprise making the Delaware the rival of the Clyde), 
are destined to spread her fame wherever American commerce reaches. In view of such 
well-earned reputation, with such mechanical and artistic record, how fitting it is her tillage, 
on which commerce, manufactures, and industry of every kind repose, should be esteemed 
noteworthy. It is pleasant to know that her fertile soil, her intelligent husbandmen, her 
crops, and flocks, and herds may be referred to as justly entitled to high discriminating praise. 
It is true we have not within our borders broad prairies like unto those of the Far West, nor its 
unctuous soil which knows no depth, and ever yields without exhaustion of fertility. We glory 
in the natural wealth of our sister States — their prosperity is ours as well ; but in our mines of 
coal, and iron, and other minerals, in our ceaseless flow of oil, nature has dealt kindly by us 
also. The gold of California, the cotton of the South, the sugar of Louisiana and Texas, the 
silks and other fibres of the world, the spices and coffees of the tropics, the highest mechanism 
of Europe, its best efforts in the useful and fine arts, are all at our command ; we have only 
to stretch forth our hands and grasp what has been so bountifully placed within our reach ; 
what has been denied us in nature's profuse scattering we have gained by thoughtful, well- 
directed efforts in the rotation of crops, in the application of appropriate fertilizers, and other 
means intelligently directed to a desired end, until " Pennsylvania Agriculture" has become 
simply another term for high-farming and successful tillage, whilst those who, resident at distant 
points, seek the best, whether it be the fine strains of animals which graze its rich pastures, or 
the seeds of grasses, cereals, or vegetables, bend their steps hitherward, and never go empty 
away. 

On the Delaware, a few miles above Philadelphia, and adjoining that fertile tract known as 
Penn's Manor, a wise and discriminating reservation of the proprietary Governor, is Blooms- 
dale, which we have selected as illustrative of the rural industry of Pennsylvania. This 
estate, we do not hesitate to say, has contributed, in an especially large degree, to the public 
good, by its products and by its eminent example also. Bloomsdale may be assumed a model 
of intelligent industry, systematic culture, and rural progress. It embraces within its bound- 



PHILADELPHIA AXD ITS ENVIROXS. 




aries, independent of outlying lands, five hundred acres devoted 
to the culture and product of seeds, known in every hamlet, 
almost on ever}- farm-hold and countr\' homestead, as " Land- 
reth's," — known almost equally well on the banks of the Missouri, 
the ^lississippi, and the Ganges, — for it should be stated, to the 
business credit and reputation of the firm, that for three generations 
Landreth's Seeds have been annually shipped to India, and are 
preferred by Englishmen resident in Hindostan to the seeds of 
their own native land, our climate ripening them better than the humid air of England. 

It is the modest motto of the proprietors of Bloomsdale that " Landreth's Seeds speak their 
own praise." They certainly cannot have done so with feeble voice, for not only are those 
broad acres taxed to their utmost productive power, but nearly approaching one thousand 
other acres in addition, owned, occupied, and cultivated by the firm, are devoted to seed- 
culture ; by this it is not intended to designate lands simply tributary, tilled by their owners 
who raise crops on contract, without direct control of those who have bargained for the pro- 
duct (as it is the custom with seed-merchants thus to obtain supplies), but immediate, active, 
personal care and supervision. Thus an idea may be conceived, though necessarily imper- 
fect, of the activity of mind and energy called forth by such extended operations ; but system 
and order are ever triumphant, and in the case in point the adage is aptly illustrated. With 
increased acreage has come increased reputation, and Pennsylvania may claim the credit, not 
a slight one we opine, of having conducted within her borders a seed trade larger than exists 
elsewhere (if lands be taken as the measure), not alone within the Union, but without as well. 
Europe, travelers assert, can exhibit nothing of like extent. This is no idle boast, made in 
the interest of private enterprise or pride of commonwealth. 

Independent of the numerous workmen employed on the estate, — many of whom have been 
life-long attaches of the establishment, occupying cottages on the premises, and as much at 
home as the proprietors themselves — a pleasing feature which it were well to imitate, — there 
are three steam-engines for thrashing, winnowing, and cleaning seeds, grinding feed, etc.; a 
"caloric" for pumping; and an admirably well-adjusted steaming apparatus for preparing 
food for the working-stock. But, still more worthy of note, there is at Bloomsdale the only 
successful steam-plough in Pennsylvania, drawn by a Williamson direct traction-engine, 
running with the steadiness of a railroad locomotive, and drawing after it a gang of ploughs, 
or it may be a combination of surface-breakers or sub-soilers, as preparations for varied 
crops demand, thus accomplishing within an hour the labor of a well-conditioned team for an 
entire day. To have been pioneers and led the way in such an effort, and achieved success 
where so many doubted and others scoffed, is indeed noteworthy ; and it is simply right to 
chronicle the fact in a volume descriptive of our State, the record, as it were, of its status at 
the present day. As the early efforts in river and ocean navigation are referred to with ever- 
increasing interest as progress is made in that direction, so will in the future be those of 
tillage by steam, and our State is entitled to its due share of praise with respect to land, as it 
unquestionably is to Fitch's exertions in steam navigation. [Since this article was originally 
written, the editor is informed some unlooked-for difficulties in ploughing by direct traction 
have been encountered, and the Messrs. Landreth are about to adopt the rope system, still 
using the "Williamson American Engine" as the motor.] 

Limited space prohibits many of the details of the operations at Bloomsdale, which we 
would gladly give our readers ; the sketch annexed may, however, convey some idea of the 
extent of the structures required for the storage, drying, and preservation of crops, and other- 
wise successful prosecution of the peculiar business there conducted, which is a credit to the 
proprietors, the successors of those who founded the business in 1784, and which may be 
classed as prominent among the many industrial enterprises of Pennsylvania. 



THE RAILROAD 



SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




ENNSYLVANIA'S railroad system will celebrate its semi- 
centennial in another year or two. Forty-eight years ago 
this anno domini 1875, some enterprising gentlemen had 
a coal quarry in the woods, on the top of Mauch Chunk 
Mountain. It was the best coal in the world, and one 
hundred miles away was a market waiting for it, but the 
problem presented itself: How to overcome the hundred 
miles and get the coal to market ? The stately Delaware 
River presented a natural highway for part of the route ; 
its wild Indian sister, the Lehigh, laughed like any free 
maiden, "Win me, and I am yours," — the water-route 
from Mauch Chunk to Philadelphia, though full of diffi- 
culties, was not impracticable. But there still remained 
nine miles of rock and forest and precipitous mountain- 
side ; and how should these be overcome ? 

Just in time for the puzzled adventurers came from over 
sea the description of the new English tramways, which, 
though they had been in use in a small way for a num- 
ber of years, George Stephenson's wonderful locomotive- 
engine was just bringing into notice. So these Pennsylvania pioneers determined to build a 
railroad, and in May, 1827, the first railroad in the State, the second in America, was opened. 
It was a small affair, and, old as it is now, no locomotive has ever yet trodden its tracks ; but 
what a magnificent system of iron highways, grown from this small beginning, now traverses 
our glorious Commonwealth ! 

Sit down with a railroad map of Pennsylvania in your hand, and think for ten minutes of 
the significance of the waved black lines which cross it in so many directions. Here is Phila- 
delphia, sitting like a true commercial queen to receive the tribute which comes to her along 
these iron avenues from North, South, East, and West. Here is a long iron band — the spinal 
cord of the State it might almost be called — running through the centre of the Commonwealth 
and sending out long feeders, uniting the lakes and the ocean, gathering up the products of 
the teeming West, — the corn of Illinois, the wine of Ohio, the oil of Western Pennsylvania. 
Here are others which run through grain-fields and orchards spreading wide and fair — over 
beds of iron and stone and clay and metals of various kinds, which yield their riches to 
increase the nation's wealth — past the pleasant lowland meadows — into the midst of the moun- 
tains — and never stop until, far in the stony hearts of the hills, miles from the fresh air and the 
sunshine, they find rich masses of glittering coal, and bring them forth to warm and light the 
dwellings of the people. Others, again, search out the recesses of gloomy forests and bring 

(I) 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



forth treasures of oak and pine and hemlock, and still others are content to end among 

the fruitful Pennsylvania farms and bring 
their products to the common mart. Some 
carry the traveler through peaceful plains 
and valleys smiling with verdant fields 
encircling pretty villages ; some take him 
through wild ravines of the mountains and 
over their wooded crests; some "where 
queenly Susquehanna smiles," and others 
still to "springs" and " falls" and " glens," 
and other places of resort almost innumer- 
able. 

Our present purpose is to follow these 
lines of rail throughout the State, wherever 
they may take us, catching, as we fly, quick 
glimpses of the scenery and points of in- 
terest along the route. We shall take, as 
it were, a "way train," and stop at minor 
points as well as major ones ; but yet we 
shall keep moving pretty briskly, and 
make short halts, as beseemeth even the 
slowest and most accommodating of trains. 
So we shall see all the railroad scenery of 
Pennsylvania, and having seen that, \ve 
shall have seen the State. 

May we be permitted to use what is al- 
most a Hibernicism, and say that one of 
the loveliest continuous stretches of Penn- 
sylvania scenery lies half over its eastern 
border ? And, though it make our offense 

deeper, we must add that the only way to its beauties lies almost wholly in our sister Common- 





DKLAWAKIi WATICR GAP. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



wealth, New Jersey. But the scenery of the Delaware River is too grandly magnificent to be 
omitted from our description, and though the Belvidere Delaware Railroad runs its entire 
length on Jersey soil, it nevertheless leads to one of the most picturesque sections of Penn- 
sylvania. 

From Philadelphia to Trenton the traveler has choice of routes. He may start from the 
Pennsylvania Railroad depot in West Philadelphia, or from the once well-known Kensington 
depot, the glory of which has now departed ; or, he may cross the river and take the Camden 
and Amboy Railroad, from Camden. In either case, the cars of the Pennsylvania Railroad 
will carry him swiftly and smoothly through a succession of pleasant vistas, where the sunshine 
lies on leafy groves and rolling farm-lands, with the blue, sail-flecked river sparkling, now in 
the foreground, now in the distance, until he reaches the ancient city of Trenton, and the Falls 
of the Delaware, the " farthest boundaries" of Oxenstiern's New Sweden. Here the Belvidere 
Delaware road will take him up and carry him northward, its track lying close to the river- 
bank most of the way, and passing through scenery which grows more and more beautiful as 
he goes on. Up to the Falls he has a deep, placid river, navigated by numerous steamers and 
sailing-craft, but above this point it becomes a mountain stream, with hilly banks, especially 
on the Pennsylvania side ; its reaches of smooth and shining water broken every little while 
by riffles and rocks or perhaps by falls, and the country growing wilder and more broken mile 
by mile. At Phillipsburg, opposite Easton, he sees the mouth of the Lehigh as it debouches 
into the Delaware almost at a right angle, sending a current across the bosom of the larger 
stream which has been fatal to many a luckless raft. On a bold bluff in the obtuse angle of 
the streams is Lafayette College, with its fine buildings, Easton's greatest " lion," while seen 
through the gap made by the Lehigh in breaking through the Delaware's lofty bank is the city 
of Easton, a quiet, pleasant place, pleasantly situated and prettily built. The next place of 
interest is Manunka Chunk, which will probably leave on the traveler's memory the impression 
of a broad platform and a flight of steps, up which he goes to take the cars of the Delaware, 
Lackawanna and Western Railroad for the Water Gap, Scranton, and Northern Pennsylvania. 




VII ^\ I\ THL GAP 



The Delaware Water Gap, the Mecca of so many summer pilgrims, is the grandest of those 
wild gorges by which all the great rivers of Central and Eastern Pennsylvania have forced their 
passage through the barrier flung in their way by the Kittatinny Mountains. A huge natural 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



dyke running northeasterly from Virginia to New York, the Kittatinnys dammed up all the 
great rivers of Eastern America, from the Hudson to the Potomac, but one and all cleft their 
passage through, and each left its record in masses of wildly shattered rock and fantastic moun- 
tain piles, which are everywhere objects of the greatest interest to the tourist. The gap of the 
Delaware, with its wildwood scenery, its beetling cliffs, hundreds of feet in height ; its expansive 
views ; the romantic scenery which lies all about it, and its strong but quiet river flowing in 
shining reaches through the giant ruins it has made, is a fitting terminus to the lovely ride along 




THE GEM OF THE VALLEY. 

(from freemansburg looking north.) 

the Delaware ; but the traveler, having seen the beauties of this spot, will do well to keep on 
up the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western road, across the great Appalachian Valley, with 
its diversified scenery, to Scranton, the heart of the great Northern Anthracite Coal-field, and, 
if he will, through the sparsely settled northern tier of counties, to Binghamton and the lake 
region of New York. 

The North Pennsylvania Railroad penetrates the rich farming lands of Montgomery and 
Bucks, and carries to Philadelphia long trains laden with the wheat and corn and hay, the 
butter and eggs and milk for which this city has a more than local celebrity. A branch to 
Doylestown, and another to the Schuylkill, gather up the products of the farms through which 
they run, and at every station on the main road and its branches may be seen farmers' wagons 
from the " back country" bringing forward the yield of the fertile acres which stretch away on 
either side for miles. Down this road also comes the coal from Lehigh and Wyoming, and up 
this road go thousands of tourists yearly, on their way to one of the nearest and most attractive 
of summer resorts in the State. 

The road runs northward, through a rolling, cultivated country, taking the hills as a steamer 
takes the waves, "bows on," and going either over or through them, with little turning aside 
to avoid them. Consequently, it is a very straight road as Pennsylvania railroads go, but the 
grade changes so constantly, now up, now down, now perfectly level, that the traveler, stand- 
ing on the end of the train and looking back, is almost reminded of a turnpike with its hills and 
hollows. The changes of grade, however, produce no discomfort. They are not even notice- 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



S 



able in the cars, and as the track is firm and smooth, and the cars luxurious, the ride from 
Philadelphia to Bethlehem is easily and quickly done. 

At Bethlehem the road ends, intersecting here with the Lehigh Valley road and the Lehigh 
and Susquehanna division of the Central Railroad of New Jersey, both of which follow the 
course of the Lehigh River northward from Easton. 

The latter place, the ancient " Forks of the Delaware," has already been mentioned. It is 
one of the old frontier towns of Pennsylvania, and stands on land secured to the heirs of Wil- 
liam Penn by the celebrated " walking purchase," a transaction which the Indians never ratified 
with good grace, and which led to numerous and fierce Indian fights. Here, at the foot of a 
bold bluff, the Lehigh debouches into the Delaware, and the railroads above mentioned, cross- 
ing from the Jersey side on substantial bridges, continue their course side by side up the narrow 
Lehigh Valley, until they cross the Wilkesbarre Mountain and descend into the broad and 
beautiful valley of the Susquehanna. As their tracks lie so close together throughout their 
entire route, we shall for the purposes of this volume treat this as one route, and either road, 
as occasion may dictate, will serve our purpose. 

The valley of the Lehigh has always been celebrated for its magnificent mountain scenery. 
Hemmed in between rocky walls from its source almost to its mouth, there are few farming 
lands on its banks to stain its waters with clay or loam, and they carry to the end the tawny 
hue derived from the hemlocks about their source. Below the Lehigh Gap, however, the moun- 
tains recede, and the view on preceding page, taken near Freemansburg, twenty-three miles 
above Easton, shows well the picturesque character of the lower valley. 




BETHLEHEM. 



Bethlehem is a queer blending of the old-time quiet and the busy hum of modern enterprise. 
In Bethlehem proper the visitor sees at every step reminiscences of its Moravian founders and 
its Revolutionary history ; while in South Bethlehem, a flourishing suburb, connected with 
the old town by a long and elegant bridge, he finds the largest steel works in the State, an 
enormous iron foundry, and the extensive works of the Lehigh Zinc Company, together with 
numerous other industrial works ; and on the slope of the hill overlooking the place are the 
handsome buildings and grounds of the Lehigh University, a monument to the wisdom and 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



liberality of Asa Packer, its founder, Bethlehem and Nazareth, ten miles north, were both 
founded by the Moravians, about 1740. Many of their solidly-constructed buildings are still 
standing, and the seminary which they founded still preserves its reputation as an excellent 
school. Many families come here from New York and Philadelphia to spend the summer, 
and surely a pleasanter, as well as more convenient spot, would be hard to find. 

Allentown, the county seat of Lehigh County, is the next place of importance above Beth- 
lehem. Then come the furnaces and other iron-works of Catasauqua and Hockendauqua, the 
slate region, which gives Slatington its name, and soon, at Lehigh Gap, a narrow pass admits 

to the wild and romantic 



scenery of the Upper Le- 
high. From this point the 
river narrows, the mountain 
walls close in, and between 
river, railways, and canal, 
there is a hard struggle 
for elbow-room. There is 
much to repay the trav- 
eler who journeys leisurely 
through this region, and 
searches out for himself 
its beauties of rock and hill 
and stream and forest, but 
most tourists content them- 
selves with the passing 
glimpses caught as the 
train flies by, and hurry on 
to Mauch Chunk, the centre 
of attraction in this region. 
If Bethlehem was 
founded by the Moravians 
as a haven of peace, Mauch 
Chunk might have been 
established by the hermits 
of the Thebaid as a refuge 
from all the world. Shut 
in on all sides by lofty 
mountains, the only site for 
a town — if site it might be 
called — lying at the bottom of a deep and narrow ravine which the winter sun can only find 
at mid-day, it is almost the last place in Pennsylvania where one would expect to find a 
flourishing town. But commerce called and labor answered, as it always does, and filled the 
mountain gorge with comfortable and elegant buildings, and dug and blasted away out to civili- 
zation, and compassed ways and means for improving the natural advantages of the place, 
until the result is a spot unique in the physical history of America. 

This place has become, within a few years, the most popular pleasure resort in the State. 
Easily and quickly accessible from both Philadelphia and New York, and possessing more 
attractions in a small compass than any other resort within a much greater distance, it is a 
favorite with the masses, who have little time or money to spare, while its excellent hotels com- 
bine with its other attractions to make it equally a favorite with those who wish a prolonged 
absence from the city. 

The Mansion House, the principal hotel, stands close to the bank of the rippling, plashing 
Lehigh, while at its back the mountain rises so precipitously as to leave but a narrow pass 




THE LEHIGH GAP. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



between the roof and the ground. This hotel will accommodate nearly five hundred guests. 
Another, under the same management, is now building on the very summit of the mountain 
under which the Mansion House stands. An inclined railway and a carriage road are to be 
built for the convenience of guests. This house will stand near the historic "Flagstaff," shown 
in our illustration, — which was the dead trunk of a tree, on which some unknown hand was 
wont to set a flag on all important occasions. As suggested rather than shown in the illus- 
tration, the view from this spot is simply magnificent. 

Our artist has sketched, as illustrations of the picturesque dwellings of this region, the resi- 
dence of Hon. Asa Packer, a self-made man, and one more honorable as the founder of Lehigh 
University than even as the president of the Lehigh Valley Railroad Company, one of the 
best-managed roads in the State, — and that of Hon. John Leisenring, a prominent director in 
the same corporation. The cut gives an idea of the handsome houses and grounds, but the 
splendid scenery about them is too vast to be portrayed on paper. 

Mauch Chunk's greatest attraction to most tourists is "The Switchback," or gravity railroad, 

mentioned 
the 




at 



be- 



ginning of 
this paper. 
This was an 
ingenious 
device to 
transport 
the coal 
from the 
great Open 
Quarry, at 
Summit 
Hill, on the 
top of Sharp 
Mountain, 
to the slack- 
water canal 
at Mauch 
Chunk. 
Originally, it was a sin- 
gle track running from 
the mines to the canal, 
with a grade so steep 
that the loaded cars ran easily of their own accord 
the entire distance. A gang of mules accompanied 
each train, in a car built for their special accommo- 
dation, and " worked their passage" by hauHng the 
empty cars back to the mines. As the works ex- 
tended and new mines were opened in Panther Creek 
Valley, on the other side of the mountain, this simple 
device no longer answered the purpose, and the 
present arrangement of planes and gravity roads was introduced. The first plane, on the face 
of Mount Pisgah, at Mauch Chunk, raised the cars from the level of the " tips," where they dis- 
charged their contents into schutes, to the top of that mountain, where the gravity track received 
them and conveyed them by force of gravity, as before, to the foot of Mount Jefferson. A second 
plane then raised them to the top of that mountain, and they ran down an easy grade to the 
Quarry, and thence down the extension of the road into the valley of Panther Creek. This 



THE FLAGSTAFF," MAUCH CHUNK. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



was the real " Switchback." The distance was so short, and the descent so steep, that the track 
was laid in angles, like the letter Z, instead of the ordinary curves, and a switch at each angle 
changed the course of the train and threw it, rear end foremost, on the other track. A descend- 
ing grade served all the collieries with cars, and when filled they were raised again to the 
Summit Hill level by two long planes. Thus the entire distance of about twenty-five miles, 
crossing two mountains, stopping, starting, shifting, and making up trains, was accomplished 
without the aid of a locomotive or even of horse-power, except that an occasional horse or 
mule was employed about the colheries. 

The coal on the top of the mountain has long been exhausted, and that of the valley is now 

-^ ^. _ . ^^-■_ __ __ drawn through 

the Nesquehon- 
ingtunnel, amile 
in length, so that 
the Switchback 
is no longer re- 
quired for its 
transportation. 
The Panther 
Creek part of 
the route has ac- 
cordingly been 
abandoned, and 
the eastern sec- 
tion, by far the 
more important 
and interesting, 
is devoted exclu- 
sively to pleasure 
travel. 

From the lower 
town, a coach 
conveys passen- 
gers to the foot 
of the first plane, 
215 feet above 
the Lehigh. Here 
on a small pla- 
teau stands the 
town of Upper 
M a u c h Chunk, 
while on a similar 
plateau, across 
the river, is seen 
East M a u c h 
Chunk, both out- 

MAUCH CHUNK AND MOUNT PISGAH. grOWths of this 

original town. The coach connects with a train of small, 
light cars (the Switchback is a " narrow-gauge" road), and 
these, being pushed to the foot of the plane, are raised by 
stationary engines at the top up an angle of twenty degrees, 
664 feet, to the starting-point of the Gravity Road. This 
ascent is apt to frighten timid people who make it for the first time ; but there is so little danger 




THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




in it that no passenger has ever 
been hurt on the plane in all the 
years it has been working. An ex- 
cellent safety apparatus is attached, 
which, Tf the bands which draw the 
cars should happen to break, would 
hold them anywhere in the ascent. 
Immediately after leaving the 
head of the plane, the cars pass 
over a trestling which fills a depres- 
sion in the mountain, and here 
magnificent views of the valley are 
obtained. At the end of the tres- 
tling is a short walk leading to the 
"Pavilion," an airy perch on the 
peak of the mountain much resorted 
to by picnic parties, and a great 
place for moonlight dances on sum- 
mer nights. 

The track now falls at the rate of 
60 feet to the mile, and the light 
cars whirl down it at an exhilarating 
speed. No dust or steam annoys 
the passengers, but the soft moun- 
tain air blows freshly in their faces 
(mingled too often, we regret to say, 
with tobacco smoke, which the in- mansion house, mauch chunk. 

excusable laxity of the company's officials permits the lower classes to puff), and a panoramic 
landscape unrolls in the distance as they dash down, and finally halt at the foot of Mount Jef- 
ferson. Here another 
plane lifts them 462 
vertical feet in a dis- 
tance of 2070, and a 
farther run of one 
mile brings them into 
the town of Summit 
Hill. 

Here the traveler 
sees the birthplace 
of coal-mining in 
America. The famous 
Open Quarry, where 
the enormous deposit 
of anthracite discov- 
ered by Philip Ginther 
in 1 79 1 was worked 
for years in open day- 
light, is close at hand, 
the height of its walls 
still testifying to the 
thickness of the mass 

RESIDENCES OF HON. ASA PACKER AND HON. J. LEIiENRINC, MAUCH CHUNK. and the Value of the 




THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



find." On his way to the Quarry the visitor passes a tract of scorched and barren soil, and 

is told, on inquiring, that he is walk- 
ing over a burning mine. The coal 
under his feet has been on fire for 
over thirty years, and is still burn- 
ing in a slow, smoulderingway, con- 
sequent on its scanty supply of air 
and the smothering accumulation 
of carbonic acid gas formed by its 
combustion. 

Near the Quarry, too, there are 
wide and deep holes, which show 
the way the coal is stored in the 
earth better than a volume of de- 
scription. These holes, one of which 
is shown in the cut, are caused by 
mining away the coal in the vein and 
leaving the surface unsupported. 
The consequence is that where the 
pitch is steep, as in this case, the 
weight of the surface soil carries it 
down into the workings below. In 
the illustration, the dark mass is the 
vein of coal rising almost perpen- 
dicularly from the depths below and 
widening a little as it reaches upper 
air. The opening beside it shows 
where the surface has fallen, leav- 
ing a hole about 600 feet deep. This 

coal has been mined by means of a " slope," a subterranean inclined plane which follows the 

vein downward a certain distance, generally about 300 feet. Galleries are then cut right and 

left into the vein, and the miners work upward from these, the coal they dig sliding down to 

the gallery, or " gangway," as it is termed, and being there loaded into small cars, hauled by 

mules to the foot of the slope, and then, by means of a wire rope and a stationary engine, 

dragged up to daylight. When all the coal in the - ^^ 

territory belonging to the colliery is exhausted, so 

far as it can be reached from these gangways, the 

slope is driven downwards another hundred yards, — 

termed in mining parlance a " lift," — and the process 

is repeated. In the above case, the slope must have 

been two " lifts" deep, a not uncommon depth, as 

they are frequently sunk four, five, and even six 

lifts. 

We give another illustration showing the method 

of mining by "drift." This is possible when the 

coal lies in a hill and can be reached by following 

the vein from a point in the valley, so as to have a 

" breast," or workable amount, of coal above the 

level of the entrance. Here the gangway is con- 
tinued out to daylight, as shown in the cut. The 

uncouth building in the same view is a coal breaker, 

a very useful institution, though built with slight ^i^-^^' in the "open quarky.' 




MOUNT PISG\H PLANE. 




THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




THE OUTCROP OF A COAL VEIN. 



regard to architectural effect. The coal is hauled 

up the inclined plane on the left to the top of the 

building, whence it descends through a series of 

rollers and screens, which break and assort it, and 

past a company of boys, who pick out the slate and 

other impurities, and finally falls into a series of bins, 

not shown, where it is stored until drawn off into 

cars and sent to market. A coal breaker will pre- 
pare from three hundred to one thousand tons of 

coal a day, the quantity depending on its size and 

the amount furnished by the mine to which it is 

attached. 

Having seen all these objects of interest, the trav- 
eler can either take stage for Tamaqua, six miles 

distant, or can take the next train on the Switchback 

and go flying down the return track to Mauch Chunk, 

a run of nine miles, which is usually made in about 

twenty minutes. 

Two miles above Mauch Chunk, from which place it is reached by train on the Lehigh 

Valley Railroad, is Glen Onoko, formerly " Moore's Ravine," a wild and beautiful place, which 

the tourist should by no means fail to see. A dashing little torrent, rising on the top of the 

mountain and falling over its 
edge, has in the course of ages 
hollowed out this fantastic path 
for itself and now goes tumb- 
ling down it, here falling over 
a cliff, there rushing, white with 
foam , through tortuous passages 
among the rocks, and again lin- 
gering and sparkling in quiet, 
limpid pools, where its clear 
waters reflect the boughs of the 
overhanging trees and the blue 
sky glimpsing through them. 

Chameleon Fall, Terrace 
Fall, and Onoko Fall are the 
principal falls in the stream ; 
but there are numerous smaller 
falls and cascades, which add 
fresh beauties at every turn of 
the path. Sunrise Point, at the 
top of Onoko Fall, commands 
a beautiful view down the Glen 
and out into the Lehigh Valley, 
but it is surpassed by Packer's 
Point, on a projecting cliff, 
reached by a branch path, from 
which a wide ranging view down 
the valley is obtained, giving 
almost a bird's-eye vista of its 
intricate system of mountains. 
VIEW SOUTH FROM THE TRESTLING, MOUNT PisGAH. Art has done much to assist 




THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




ON THE GRADE. 




VIEW NORTH FROM THE TRESTLING, MOUNT PISGAH. 



nature in making the most of 
her treasures of wood and rock 
and water in Glen Onoko. It 
is a delightful place to look and 
linger through a summer day, 
and visitors to Mauch Chunk 
often spend the entire day in 
its cool recesses. 

Among other places of note 
easily accessible by rail from 
Mauch Chunk are the Nesque- 
honing Tunnel, above men- 
tioned, which is traversed by 
the train from Mauch Chunk to 
Tamaqua, and the Nesquehon- 
ing Bridge, which is on the 
route to Tamenend and the 
Catawissa. This is an open 
trestle bridge crossing the head 
waters of the Little Schuylkill 
River, which here flows through 
a deep gorge in the mountains. 
The bridge is iioo feet long, 
and 1 68 feet above the stream. 
It is well worth seeing for its 
own sake, and no pen can do 
justice to the magnificent vista 
of mountain peaks and minia- 
ture valleys which stretches 
away on either hand from its 
dizzy summit. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



13 




The Lehigh Mountains ai-e so 
rich in romantic scenery, that 
more places of interest have al- 
ready been opened to the traveler 
in this region than in any other 
of equal extent in Pennsylvania, 
while much still remains to re- 
vi'ard the explorer. "Moore's 
Ravine," with its wealth of 
beauty, was all unknown to fame 
until the summer of 1872, when 
an article in Lippincott's Mag- 
azine called attention to it, and 
it remained a tangled labyrinth 
ofrock and brush until the follow- 
ing season. The grand scenery 
of Upper Lehigh was a secret 
with a chosen few until the same 
time, and many nooks like Stony 
Creek, full of the most pictur- 
esque scenery, still await name 
and mention in the mountain 
fastnesses. 

A short ride from Mauch Chunk 
up the winding valley of the Le- 
high brings the traveler to White 



TERRACE FALLS, GLEN ONOKO. 



14 



l^HE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




Haven, the seat of an exten- 
sive lumber trade, and here 
a branch road, nine miles 
long, conveys him to Upper 
Lehigh, a colliery town on 
the top of the mountain. 
The scenery here is wild 
and rugged in the extreme. 
A short walk from the hotel 
leads to the top of Prospect 
Rock, which hangs over a 
deep precipice and com- 
mands a lovely view of 
mountain valleys. Facing 
it, across a narrow but deep 
gorge, is Cloud Point, the 
abrupt termination of a sin- 
gular line of jutting rock 
which constitutes the back- 
bone of the mountain. 

Between these two sen- 
tinel peaks lies Amber Glen, 
or Glen Thomas (for it bears 



CLOUD POINT, UPPLR LLHlGll. 

both names), a romantic spot, dark 
with the shade of tall hemlocks and 
filled with enormous masses of 
loose rock, many of them as large 
as a small house ; while between 
the rocks and round the roots of the 
hemlocks prattles a beautiful little 
stream whose tawny waters have 
given the glen its better name and 
caused the loveliest bit of the stream 
to be called Amber Cascade. 

There are other points of interest 
about Upper Lehigh, not the least 
of which, perhaps, is its double 
coal-breaker, one of the largest in 
the whole coal region. A day may 



A VIEW ON STONY CREEK. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



15 




PROSPECT ROCK AND THE NESCOPEC VALLEY. 



be spent at this point with pleasure 
and profit. 

Upper Lehigh is deep in the 
woods, and the only way in is like- 
wise the only way out. The visitor 
retracing his steps to White Haven, 
may there take the cai's back to 
Philadelphia or New York, or he 
may go on to the beautiful Wyom- 
ing Valley and, if he choose, to 
Elmira, Buffalo, and the Lakes. 
The two railroads which we have 
followed up the valley here begin 
the ascent of Wilkesbarre Moun- 
tain, and on reaching its top diverge 
and descend into the Wyoming 
Valley in opposite directions. 

As they turn the corner of the 
mountain and run down its north- 
ern side, the valley below unfolds 
a panorama of beauty which has 
been admired and praised by every 
visitor since the first hunter trod 
the rugged summit of the moun- 
tain. The whole valley, with its 
green fields diversified by towns 




THE FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE WYOMING VALLEY. 



i6 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



and villages, and the Susquehanna running like a silver ribbon through it all, is spread before 
the eye, and the cars, as they thunder down the grade, afford all too little chance to feast upon 




MOORE S FALLS 



the lovely vista. If on the Lehigh and Susquehanna road, the traveler should not fail to see the 
deep glen of Laurel Run, just after passing Laurel Run Station. The train here runs along a 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



17 



narrow shelf hewn out of the solid 
rock, with a wall of rock rising far 
into the air on one side, and the 
waving tops of stately trees seen far 
below on the other. 

Soon after, the train reaches 
Wilkesbarre, a beautifully located 
and beautifully laid out city, on the 
bank of the Susquehanna, with wide, 
well-shaded streets, and tastefully- 
planned houses and grounds. The 
Lehigh and Susquehanna road goes 
on to Scranton, the metropolis of 
the upper anthracite coal region, and 
a busy, bustling, thriving place ; 
while the Lehigh Valley follows the 
beautiful North Branch of the Sus- 
quehanna to Waverly, on the line 
between Pennsylvania and New 
York, where it intersects the Erie. 
The whole route is full of interest, 
and the tourist will be well repaid 
who follows it to the end. 

All parts of Pennsylvania abound 
in beautiful scenery, but nature seems 
to have been especially liberal in be- 
stowing its attractions on the north- 
eastern portion, which we have just 
described. 




?4; 






~-x^J^^ 



•^ a 




NESQUEHONING BRIDGE. 




ALL ABOARD ! 



i8 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



The Philadelphia and Reading Railroad has four termini in Philadelphia, and something like 
half a thousand in the coal regions from which it draws its life. The most important of its 
Philadelphia depots, in a commercial light, is the gigantic system of wharves and docks consti- 
tuting the Richmond coal depot, whence this company's immense shipments of coal are made. 
An auxiliary, but much smaller point of departure, is that at Willow Street wharf, where the 
Company has a huge freight depot. A passenger depot at Ninth and Green Streets is the city 
terminus of the Germantown and Norristown branch, a twin pair of roads, short but important ; 

giving access to the lovely scenery of Ger- 
mantown and Chestnut Hill, to the Wissa- 
hickon, and to the flourishing towns of 
Manayunk, Conshohocken, and Norris- 
town. At the last place, the Norristown 
branch, which runs up the east bank of 
the Schuylkill, crosses that stream and 
connects with the main stem, and also 
with the Chester Valley branch, which 
runs westward through a rich farming 
country and connects with the Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad near Downingtown. 

The main stem of the Reading — the 
" Long Road," as its employes term it, in 
distinction from its innumerable branches 
— has its passenger depot at Thirteenth 
and Callowhill Streets. A tour over it 
will well repay the traveler in search of 
the romantic and the beautiful. Passing 
through the farming and pasture lands 
of Chester, Montgomery, and Berks, and 
ramifying through every gorge of the 
Kittatinnys in Schuylkill, with branches 
covering all the country between Harris- 
burg and Williamsport, on the Susque- 
hanna, and the whole length of the 
Schuylkill River, it presents in the com- 
pass of a hundred miles what we might 
call a "synopsis" of all the scenery of 
Pennsylvania. 

The attractions of this route begin even 
before the city bounds are passed. The 
road passes through the entire length of 
Fairmount Park, its elevated track afford- 
ing an excellent view of the old Park from 
the Green Street entrance to Lemon Hill ; crosses the Schuylkill by means of the Columbia 
Bridge below Belmont, and at the Falls of Schuylkill intersects the coal branch running to 
Richmond. The massive stone bridge by which this branch here crosses the Schuylkill is 
a prominent feature of the landscape as seen from the train. Shortly after leaving the P'alls, 
the traveler catches a glimpse of the mouth of the Wissahickon as it debouches under the high 
bridge of the Norristown Railroad, and in a few moments more he is plunged into the darkness 
of the Manayunk Tunnel, to emerge again in a grove of willows and follow the course of the 
placid river, mile after mile, till Norristown is passed and he arrives at Phoenixville. 

The train flies past the historic Valley Forge, once the scene of war's sternest reality, now 




VALLEY FORGE. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



19 



devoted to the mimic camps of summer picnic parties ; makes short halt before the blazing 
forges of Phoenixville ; then, with a dash through a dismal covered bridge, another through a 




THE SCHUYLKILL ABOVE POTTSTOWN. 

gloomy tunnel, and a third across an open, sensible bridge, which gives glorious views of a 
bold wooded bluff on either side, rising sheer from the river, which curves and nestles like a 
sleepy kitten at its foot ; and then we travel on through a rolling country, passing stations with 
queer names, — Mingo, Royer's Ford, Aramingo, Monocacy, — past Pottstown, large, sedate, and 
important ; past Birdsboro', the junction of the Wilmington and Reading Railroad, and after 




THE SCHUYLKILL BELOW READING. 



two hours and a half of sharp riding we come to Reading, the ancient county seat of ancient 
Berks, the chief seat of the railroad company's works, and the nucleus of a grand system of 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVAxWIA. 



lines on which trains converge from all points of the compass. The splendid new depot here 
is worthy of more than passing mention. Superb, complete ; of generous size and elaborate 
appointments ; with nothing omitted that can please the taste or add to the comfort of the trav- 
eler, from the miniature lawns and sparkling fountains in the three courtyards, to the well-pro- 
vided and well-served restaurant, the luxurious waiting-rooms, and the spacious platforms, — it 
is a model depot, and one which might be copied to advantage by many a pretentious corpora- 
tion throughout the country. 

Just before reaching this place, we have struck the first series of hills, and have shuddered, 
perhaps, at the sharp curves and narrow passes between the river below and the rocks above. 




THE SCHUYLKILL ABOVE PORT CLINTON. 



But this is only a foretaste. We shall see grander things by-and-by. Now comes another 
stretch of fertile country, a trifle more broken than that below Reading, but covered with smiling 
fields and dotted with quiet villages. But the blue line of mountains on the northern hori- 
zon rises and grows more distinct as we approach, until we pass Hamburg and penetrate, 
through the Port Clinton Tunnel, at once into the county of Schuylkill and into the midst of 
the mountains. 

The scenery at this point is romantic in the extreme. Up to this time the traveler has been 
riding through an open country, where the view was wide and the prospect filled with farms, 
dotted with an occasional grove of trees or isolated hill ; but as the train shoots out from the 
low archway of the tunnel and stops at Port Clinton Station, he perceives that he has come 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



into a new, wild, rugged region. On either hand the mountains rise sheer and high, the river, 
spumed from one to another, winds hke a snake at their feet, and the railroad, following the 
path marked out by the river, winds in and out of the mountain hollow?, and curves until it 




MOUNT CARBON AND SHARP MOUNTAIN. 

almost seems to double back upon itself. At Port Clinton the road forks, one branch following 
up the Little Schuylkill River to Tamaqua and thence running through the Mahanoy Valley; 
the other, or main stem, continuing up the Schuylkill proper to Pottsville, and then splitting 
up into so many branches, some longer, some shorter, that its map looks like an oak-tree 
stripped of its leaves. 

Pottsville is the metropolis of the Schuylkill coal trade. Situated on the flank of Sharp 
Mountain, on the southern edge of the great Schuylkill coal-field, it was the scene of the first 
mining experiments in this field, and from its ready accessibility and fine location became the 
chosen home of the great coal princes and the capital of their peculiar province. Their opera- 
tions were vast. Their units of trade were not dollars but hundreds of thousands ; and though 
many of them failed in the end to grasp the prize they made such giant struggles for, yet when 
they did make money they made a great deal. And so they built handsome houses and 
adorned them elegantly, and left their children a heritage not only of wealth but of culture and 
refinement. 

The Lehigh and Wyoming coal regions early fell into the hands of large corporations, which 
drained their riches for the benefit of non-resident stockholders ; but the Schuylkill mines were 
owned by private firms or individuals, and the wealth they yielded remained to a great extent 
in the region, much of it being expended in beautifying the town of Pottsville. The coal trade 
has been, to a great extent, absorbed by a corporation, the Philadelphia and Reading Coal 
and Iron Company, but the elegance and ease remain to justify Pottsville's poetical title of 
" The Mountain City." 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



As the traveler enters the town, on the Philadelphia and Reading Railroad, he passes through 
one of the many picturesque water-gaps for which the Kittatinny Range is noted. Sharp Moun- 
tain, the southern rim of the coal basin, is here rent from base to summit, the jagged rocks 
standing out on either side as fresh and rough as if their cleft had been made by an earth- 
quake yesterday. Our view shows its abrupt bluff on the west side of the Schuylkill, but 
shows it toned down a little by distance. At its foot nestles the village of Mount Carbon, 
where the railway company maintains an excellent hotel, a short half-mile from the business 
centre of Pottsville. 

The view from the summit of this bluff is beautiful in the extreme, while the magnificent 
sheets of conglomerate displayed on its edge are enough to set a geologist wild. There is prob- 
ably no finer display of this beautiful rock anywhere in the world. At the southern foot of the 
mountain, and on the east side of the river, is the valley of Tumbling Run, the Fairmount 
Park of Pottsville. Here the Schuylkill Navigation Company has dammed up a mountain 
stream, and spread out its waters into two delightful little lakes, which add a great charm to 
what would be a lovely valley without them. There is a good road running all the length of 

this beautiful valley, and it is the chief among 



the many pleasant drives about the town. 

Four miles below Pottsville are Schuylkill 

Haven and Cressona, sister towns 

built up by the combined influence 

^. of the Reading and Minehill Rail- 

'^=-- ^-= roads and the Schuylkill Canal, 




TUMBLING RUN. 



which all meet at the former place, the present shipping-point of that important part of the 
coal trade which is water-borne to market. The Minehill Railroad is one of the more im- 
portant arms by which the Reading gathers in its supply of coal. It runs through a narrow 
valley, that of the West Branch of the Schuylkill, principally wild and lonely, but afTordmg 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



23 



some beautiful views, like that at " Germantown," shown in the cut; passes the important 
coal-town of Minersville, and climbs to the top of Broad Mountain at Gordon, whence it 







THE VALLEY OF THE WEST BRANCH. 



descends by two long inclined planes to the valley of the Mahanoy. Near Minersville it passes 
the Gap {par excellence) of the Mine Hill, celebrated for its picturesque views and the mag- 
nificent antichnal shown in its fracture, — an arch of rock as smooth and perfect in its sweep 
as if formed by the hand of art. 

A branch of this road runs west- 
ward to Tremont, where it inter- 
sects still another section of this 
labyrinthine system. But this is a 
coal road exclusively, and if we 
wish to see the beauties of the west- 
ern end of the region, we must take 
train to Auburn, and thence pro- 
ceed to Pinegrove and Tremont 
by a roundabout way. The first 
part of the ride is on the main 
line of the Reading, up which we 
have come, but at Auburn we take 
the Schuylkill and Susquehanna 
branch, which passes through a 
region of mountain-farms to Pine- 
grove, and thence through the 
well-named valley of Stony Creek 
— the wildest and most rugged 
stretch of road in all the system — 
to the Susquehanna at Dauphin, 
and thence to Harrisburg. At Pinegrove we strike the midst of the mountains again, and run 




MINE HILL GAP. 



24 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



along their foot to Tremont, and here begin the ascent of the Broad Mountain, to reach the 
collieries on its top and on the flank of Big Lick Mountain, beyond it. The graders heavy, and 
the engine puffs and pants as it slowly drags the train upward through the woods to the wide 
plateau on the summit of the mountain. There is a short halt at " Kefifer's," where a boy takes 
off a lean mail-bag, and half a dozen women, who have been to Tremont to purchase supplies, 
get out ; and then, as the train rolls away, a ravine opens on the left of the track and grows 
rapidly deeper and wider, until it is a valley paved — not filled — with a smooth floor of green, 
which presently resolves itself into a forest far below, and then, in a moment more, the trav- 
eler sees the broad farms of Williams Valley spread out before him, the valley itself divided like 
some wide river split into two arms by an island-mountain rising abruptly in the midst of it, 
and finds himself on a narrow shelf hewn out of the mountain, with its rocky wall on one side, 
a torrent precipice on the other, and beyond the precipice one of the loveliest views he has 
ever looked upon. It lies beside him all the way to Tower City and on to Brookside, — and at 
the latter place he reaches Ultima Thtde : there is no more beyond. He can come from the 
opposite direction and approach within four miles of this point ; but that four miles is rough 
with rocks and bristling with bushes. There is no path for the railway, and no means for the 

mere railway traveler to cross it. His only way to pass the gap 
is by stage from Tower City, or by that still more antiquated con- 
veyance, Shanks his mare. 

Starting again from Pottsville, our engine 
backs the train past Mount Carbon to the 
" Intersection Switch," and then, resuming the 
natural order of progression, crosses the creek 
which here does duty for the Schuylkill 
River, and follows its east bank back ,y 
through the gap and up past the fur- 




LOWER GORDON PLANE. 



naces and forges of Palo Alto ; and just as it gets cleverly under way comes another junction 
and another choice of routes. Let us take the shorter first. This is the left-hand track. It 
takes us through two flourishing towns, Port Carbon and St. Clair, past mountains of coal-dirt 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



25 



and miles of coal cars, and at the latter place is performed one of those curious manoeuvres to 

which the traveler in this mountain-land must become accustomed. The engine leaves its 

position at the head of the train and falls to the rear, where it 

comes against the cars head foremost, and proceeds 

to push them along. It is a singular procedure and ^ '*i\-^ 

one not suggestive of rapid traveling, to say ^?^ 



nothing of collisions, cars on the track, and 
similar dangers agamst which the engineer 
is supposed to provide , but there is a good 
reason for it. 
The greatest 
danger here is 
one unknown on - 







most roads The grade is 

so heavy (179 feet to the 

mile) that if the trim were 

diawn up in the ordinary 

\\a\, the weight of the cars 

would be thiown on the 

couplings and \ei) prob- 

ibl> snap them in which case 

the detached portion would go 

to sure and swift destruction. 

It is the steepest continuous grade in the 

world traversed by an ordinary locomotive, 

and is a triumph of engineering skill. 

From the car windows the traveler will 
notice another |oad, a series of levels and 
inclined planes, now used as a wagon road. 
This is the old Girard Railway, a tramway 
by which Stephen Girard sought to convey the coal from his mine in the Mahanoy Valley 
over the mountain to the Schuylkill and so to market. His death put a stop to the work 
before it was entirely finished, and the introduction of locomotive-engines prevented its ever 
being completed. 

Puffing to the top of this steep ascent, we find ourselves again on the top of Broad Mountain, 
and our engine trundles us gently into Frackville, a large and rapidly-growing town, where, 
a dozen or fifteen years ago, stood a solitary wayside tavern in the woods, with one corner 
resting on a post in a fish-pond filled with the landlady's pets. This is the " head of naviga- 
tion" on this route; and if the traveler wonders why a railroad should be built up the steep 
side of a mountain, to end thus in mid-air as it were, the long lines of coal cars waiting to go 
down and the fresh gangs constantly arriving, answer him. Now let him follow th<? railway 



ULTIMA THULE 



26 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




THE GRADE NEAR FRACKVILLE. 



track around the curve, — taking care that none of the innumerable engines and trains run 
over him, — and he will have before him at once a magnificent natural view and a splendid 




MAHANOY PLANE (LOOKING DOWN). 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



27 



triumph of art. Looking from the edge of the mountain plateau, he has the Mahanoy Valley 
at his feet, a busy, populous territory, full of towns set so close together that their corporate 
limits — for they are all incorporated — almost touch, and diversified by the black masses of 
numerous coal-breakers which dot the whole landscape and give life and wealth to what, a few 
years ago, was a gloomy hemlock swamp. 

But the railroad which connects the collieries in the valley is 354 perpendicular feet below 
the track on which he stands ; and the means used to raise the coal to his level will be the first 
thing to attract his attention. From a spacious engine-house, filled with ponderous but hand- 
some machinery, an incHned plane runs down the mountain-side, not in a straight hne like 
most planes, but with a " vertical curve" like a section of a gigantic wheel, steep at first and 
easing off as it nears the foot, so that to one looking down the plane it appears to merge in the 




MAHANOY PLANE 



level track long before the de- 
scending "barney" smks mto its 
stall at the bottom. The plane is 
2410 feet long, and its top is 1478 
feet above tide. From four to 
eight loaded coal cars are hoisted 
at a time by the enormous stationary engines at the top, and the amount of coal thus raised 
in the course of a year runs into a tonnage of seven figures. 

We might spend much time here, pointing out interesting spots and relating anecdotes of 
the men whom Bret Harte would call "the Argonauts of Anthracite;" we might even get a 
special permit and risk our necks in the descent of the plane, but we can do no more in this 
rapid journey than to point out scenes worth seeing, and let the reader, if he so inclines, visit 
them for himself. Our time is up and our train is waiting ; let us go back. 

Now we take the longer branch of the road we started on, which, we should have said at the 
start, is the Schuylkill Valley branch of the Reading. It follows the course of the river, which 
shrinks and shrinks as we ascend, until the yellow rivulet pouring out from some old mine 
adds sensibly to its volume, and it degenerates into a mere ditch beside the railroad track ; 



28 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



and finally, above Tuscarora, we lose it altogether in the marshes around its source. All along 
the valley are mining settlements, and here and there is a colliery at work, but most of the 
mines along this route date from the earliest period of the trade, and are now exhausted 
There is plenty of coal deep down in the rocks, but it will require large capital and an exten- 
sive " plant." like the deep Norwegian shafts of the Philadelphia and Reading Coal and Iron 
Company, near Pottsville, to develop it. These shafts, by the way, are well worth the tourist's 
attention. They are 1500 feet deep, cost a million of dollars, and have opened coal enough 
to keep them working for at least a hundred years. They are the pioneers of deep coal-mining 
in America. * 

The chief attraction of this valley now, however, is its natural scenery ; our now familiar 




mountains. There are charming nooks in 
these wooded steeps which seem just made 
for excursion parties, and one in special, 
readily accessible from Brockville Station, 
deserves a passing word. It has not been 
improved. It still bears the prosaic name of 
" Big Run" given it by the practical miners, and there are no sign-boards warning visitors to 
" Keep off the grass and don't break the shrubbery." A mouldy old road, grown up with 
bushes until it is nothing but a path, runs through it. There are huge rocks and picturesque 
cascades and gloomy caverns and shady trees and deep, soft cushions of moss, and everything 
that makes a glen delightful, but it is still waiting for public fame and favor. 

A few miles more and we reach Tamaqua, one of the oldest and most important towns in 
the region, the terminus of the Little Schuylkill Railroad, of which we saw the other end at Port 
Clinton. We make short pause here, but hurry on to the Mahanoy Valley, which we enter 
through a mighty tunnel 3800 feet long, — a plucky undertaking for a road which, when it was 
built, was only designed to be eight miles in total length. It was long ago absorbed in the 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OE PENNSYLVANIA. 



29 



Reading, though, or rather in its Mahanoy and Shamokin division, and so the tunnel no longer 
seems disproportionate. 




TUNNEL COLLIERY, ASHLAND 



This tunnel is the gateway to 
a distinct region It pierces the 
" divide' as it would be called in 
Californii the " watershed as 
eastern geologists term it, between 
the head-waters of the Schuylkill and the tributaries of the Susquehanna, and admits us to the 
field whence now comes the great bulk of the Schuylkill coal. The long, straight Mahanoy 
Valley, from the tunnel to Ashland, is filled with collieries and their attendant towns. Branch 
railroads run right and left at frequent intervals, and terminate under the black, overhanging 
masses of uncouth coal-breakers, connecting there with veritable underground railways which 
pierce to the very hearts of the mountains and dive down far 
below the bottom of the valley. Trains of coal cars occupy the 
sidings, groups of grimy miners are seen here and there, and 
everything betokens the one great industry which occupies the 
region. 

In this and the adjoining Shenandoah Valley, and on the 
comparatively diminutive Bear Ridge which parts them, lie the 
Girard lands, Stephen Girard's rich legacy to the city of Phila- 
delphia, mentioned on a preceding page. After his unsuccess- 
ful attempt to open the riches of this region to the world, thirty 
years ago, it was abandoned to the hunters and their game, and 
it was not until the period of the Rebellion that its mountain 
walls were scaled and pierced by the railway, and its vast stores 
of anthracite opened to supply the constantly increasing de- 
mand. Now it is one long settlement from end to end, and the 
amount of money paid out monthly to its hard-working inhab- 
itants would make a princely revenue. 

All along this route we notice a peculiar and striking feature 
of the landscape. The hillside, and, in some places, the valley 
too, are scarred with " falls," where the mining underneath has 
taken away the support of the surface soil and has let it down 
in great masses, leaving yawning chasms where the pure, rich 
coal is seen standing in its place, brushed by the tops of stately 

trees whose roots have descended a hundred feet lower than they were ever intended to. Not 
only trees but houses also, and, saddest of all, men, women, and children have occasionally 




MINING COSTUME. 



3° 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



been engulfed in these fearful " crevasses" ; but the latter instances are rare. As a rule, the 
crop of the vein is known and avoided in building, so that when it sinks it does little harm. 

Near the foot of the Mahanoy Plane, a branch 
road curves round the shoulder of Bear Ridge 
and runs into the Shenandoah district and to the 
town of Shenandoah, a large and important min- 
ing centre, around which eleven large collieries 
group themselves like a necklace of black dia- 
monds. The main branch goes on to Ashland, 
another large coal town, prettily seated on a hill- 
side, and then backs — for it has another ridge to 
cross — and takes a fresh start, a mile or two down 
the valley, to reach the collieries at Locust Gap, 
Mount Carmel, and the Shamokin region. 

All this countr)' is bristling with collieries and 
covered with railroads. The slender path of the 
iron horse is seen everj'where, and in the most 
unlikely places. Now at the bottom of a gorge, 
now on the crest of a mountain, now climbing a 
steep acclivity which makes the engine puflF and 
pant to follow it, now running along a dizzy shelf 
where a broken rail or a fractured flange would hurl the train hundreds of feet below ; where- 
ever it pleased the coal veins to show themselves, there a collier\- was located, and where the 
collier}- was planted, there the engine found a way to reach it. The railway engineer who 
cannot learn some new hints about road-building here must be a master of his profession 

^__ indeed. As a matter of course, aU this climbing and 

falling, all these cur\-es and doubles, open a constant 
succession of delightful views, which for number and 
variety- can scarcely be equaled anywhere. The 
tourist who makes his head-quarters at Pottsville finds 
within the radius of a two hours' ride, in a dozen dif- 
_- ^ ferent directions, enough to keep him 

constantly busy and constantly de- 
lighted with fresh surprises for days 
and even weeks. Not only one road 
but several unite to carrv him from 




PAY DAY. 




LNDER THE BREAKER. 



point to point of this picturesque country. At Mahanoy City, the flourishing metropolis of that 
valley, and again at Shenandoah, the Lehigh and Mahanoy road connects with the Reading, 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



31 



and will carry him through a series of romantic gorges to Penn Haven Junction and the Lehigh 




LORBERRY JUN'CTION. 



Valley ; the Central Railroad of New Jersey sends for him a branch to Tamaqua, and at Mount 
Carmel and Shamokin he finds a branch of the Northern Central. 

The Reading, too, will carry him past Mount Carmel, where we left it last, down to the Sus- 
quehanna at Herndon, where it connects with the Northern Central ; the whole route lying 

through a succession of 
mountain and valley scen- 
ery, all alike in plan, all 
varying in detail, like the 
selections we present at 
Lorberry Junction and Ra- 
vmo Gap. 

Picturesque scenery in- 
volves bold engineering, 
and this, in turn, involves 
the facing of more than 
ordinary risks to train and 
track ; while these, in their 
turn, excite to so much 
more than ordinary care 
and watchfulness that the 
real danger is made less 
than on more common- 
place roads. All these 
points are well displayed 
in the Catawissa Railroad, 
the longest and latest ac- 
quired branch of the Reading. Built, for the greater 
part of its course, through a country certainly never de- 
signed by nature for a railway, it is a perfect acrobat of 
roads. It goes over mountains and through them ; it 
hangs beetling on the edges of dizzy precipices hundreds 
of feet in height ; it leaps boldly from summit to summit, 
its track upheld in mid-air by wooden trestling so tall 
and slender that from the top the lowest timbers look scarce larger than match-sticks ; it 




32 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



X 



I 




SUSQUEHANNA RIVER NEAR HERNDON. 

twists and doubles and winds through a constant succession of seeming perils, until at last it 
brings the traveler out of the mountain country, at Catawissa, carries him over the North Branch 




^m^*' 



VIEW ON THE SUSQUEHANNA OPPOSITE CATAWISSA. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



33 



of the Susquehanna, crosses the peninsula between the branches, past the roaring iron-works 
of Danville, to the West Branch and Milton, and thence follows that beautiful stream to Wil- 
liamsport, where it lands him safely after a ride as exciting as it is delightful. There are tres- 
tlings on this road more than loo feet in height, that near Ringtown being about 130 feet. The 
curve at " Nigger Hollow'" is as sharp as the celebrated horse-shoe curve on the Pennsylvania 
road ; and there is a tradition to the effect that engineers going over the road with long coal- 
trains, on dark nights, have been signaled to stop by a red light on the track ahead, which, on 
investigation, proved to be the customary signal-lamp on the end of their own trams. But no 
serious accident has ever happened on any portion of this road, and on the more dangerous 
portion, between Tamaqua and Catawissa, no accident involving loss of life or limb has ever 




MAINVILLE WATER-GAP. 

been recorded. It is so well watched that it is perfectly safe, while for grand and beautiful 
mountain scenery it is surpassed, if equaled, by none in the State. Our illustration of Main- 
ville Gap, near Catawissa, gives an idea of its tamer portions. 

At Rupert, opposite Catawissa, this road connects with the Lackawanna and Bloomsburg, 
now a branch of the Delaware, Lackav/anna and Western, which follows the North Branch of 
the Susquehanna to the Wyoming region, Wilkesbarre, and Scranton, connecting with the 
Lehigh Valley Railroad and with its own main stem, as well as with the Delaware and Hudson 
Coal Company's road for Carbondale, where there is another picturesque bit of scenery. The 
last road and also that of the Pennsylvania Coal Company run on to the Delaware, through 
beautiful scenery all the way, and finally connect through to the Hudson. 

3 



34 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

: ^ 



Scarcely had the war-cloud of the Revolution passed over, before the new-born nation 
began to consider how best to strengthen and maintain the right to be for which it had fought 
so stubbornly. The State of Pennsylvania, among its first acts, turned its attention to the 
internal improvement of the Commonwealth, and in 1789 " The Society for Promoting the 
Improvement of Roads and Inland Navigation" was organized. This was a vigorous as 
well as useful organization. It was devoted to the objects implied in its name. It had a large 
membership scattered all over the State, and its way of doing business was, to say the least, 
energetic. When the Legislature opened, it moved in a body to Harrisburg, took up its resi- 
dence there for the entire session, and formed itself into a systematic lobby, which worried the 
honorable Senators and Representatives in season and out of season. Meetings were held 

" on every Monday evening during the session 
of the Legislature, in order to suggest informa- 
tion, schemes and proposals, for promoting 
internal trade, manufactures and population, 
by facilitating every possible communication 
between the different parts of the State ;" and 
every member considered it his individual duty 
to press home the plans of the Society on every 
law-maker who fell in his way. The unhappy 
Legislature being thus regularly besieged, a 
heavy fire of petitions, memorials, etc., was 
opened on it, and kept up until the honorable 
members found that their only hope of peace 
lay in considering favorably the demands of 
the Society ; and this they accordingly has- 
tened to do. 

The first assault, which was in the shape of 
a memorial presented "by order and on be- 
half of the Society"— by Robert Morris, Presi- 
dent, February 7, 1791, was calculated to startle 
the hardiest nerves among a people so nearly 
bankrupt as the war had left those of Pennsyl- 
vania. It looked to nothing less than the es- 
tablishment of a grand system of canals and 
slack-water navigation ramifying throughout 
the entire State and running up into New 
York ; and the second was like unto it, for it 
proposed an equally elaborate system of turn- 
pikes, the whole to be constructed at the ex- 
pense of the State, for though the memorialists 
did not say so directly, they evidently meant to imply it, and that the Legislature so under- 
stood them is shown by its guarded yet encouraging response. 

The first of these memorials, and the arguments and plans that accompany it, show consider- 
able knowledge of the topography of the country even at that early day, and a keen apprecia- 
tion of the importance of a good start in the "happy rivalry" which the memorialists wisely 
anticipate between Philadelphia and New York for the future trade of the yet to be developed 
West. " Pennsylvania," it says, " from her situation and extent of territory, is a respectable 
Commonwealth in the Union. Her soil is fertile, her products various, and her rivers, by the 
bountiful Author of nature, have been made to flow in every direction, as if on purpose to bear 
from all parts the wealth and produce of the land, in an easy, cheap, and expeditious manner, 
to her principal mart and port in the City of Philadelphia." 




VIEW NEAR HESTONVILLE. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



35 



The reply of the Legislature was, in effect, "Help yourselves and we will help you." It 




" WYNNEWOOD" — RESIDENCE OF COL. OWEN JONES. 



promised to " make liberal appropriations of public money for the improvement of such roads 
and navigable waters" as the people were unable to improve for themselves. So through the 




BRYN MAWK STATION. 



well-directed efforts of the society with the polysyllabic name the improvement of the Delaware 
River and the construction of the Union, Pennsylvania, West Branch, Lehigh, and Schuylkill 



36 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




BRYN MAWR HOTEL. 



Canals 
objects 



as well as of a large number of turnpikes, were begun, the State appropriating for these 
about two hundred thousand dollars in two years, a large sum in those impoverished days. 

The impetus thus given to 
internal improvement had not 
died away when George Ste- 
phenson brought out the 
Rocket, guaranteed her to run 
twelve miles an hour, and actu- 
ally ran her thirty. The State 
of Pennsylvania was quick to 
see the value of this new " im- 
provement," and on March 21, 
1823, the Legislature passed 
"an act authorizing Mr. 
Stevens and others to make 
a railway from Columbia, on 
the Susquehanna, to Philadel- 
phia." This was the first act 
passed in America authorizing 
a company to build a railway 
for the general purposes of 
commerce; and when the 
company failed, the Common- 
wealth took up the work and 
built the road itself 
It was opened in 1834, and was 




PAOLI. 



This was the beginning of the Pennsylvania Railroad. 



I 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



37 



eighty-four and a half miles in length. It worked admirably, so far as it went, and for years 
people were content to go from Philadelphia by rail to Columbia ; thence by canal or stage to 
Huntingdon, — over the Portage Railroad to Johnstown, — and again by canal to Pittsburgh ; 
going, as the " People's Line of Cars and Stages" advertises in the first number of the Public 
Ledger, March 25, 1836, " through in two and a half days." How this state of things has been 
changed is too well known to need rehearsing here. 

At Thirty-second and Market Streets, in West Philadelphia, is the gateway to Central, West- 
ern, and Northern Pennsylvania. Here we may take the swift express train and follow the 
ponderous Conestoga wagon of Read's " Wagoner of the Alleghanies " through nearly or quite 
the whole of his roving course : — 

" Ye knew him well, ye mountain-miles, 
Throughout your numerous dark defiles : — 
Where Juniata wreathes away 
On feathery wings of foam and spray ; 
Or queenly Susquehanna smiles, 
Proud in the grace of her thousand isles ; 
Where Poet and Historian fling 
Their light on classic Wyoming; 
And you, ye green Lancastrian fields. 
Rich with the wealth which Ceres yields; 
And Chester's storied vales and hills. 
In depths of rural calm divine. 
Where reels the flashing Brandywine, 
And dallies with its hundred mills." 

" Classic Wyoming" and the Brandywine are best reached by other routes: through all the 
rest, so graphically apostro- 



phized, this justly celebrated 
road may take us. 

Its opening miles are full of 
the rich, cultivated beauty of 
suburban villas and villages. 
Fairmount Park, with George's 
Hill and the Centennial 
Grounds, is full in view on the 
right, as soon as we have cleared 
the yards and shops. Then 
come the multitudinous tracks 
of Mantua, with the New York 
Division coming through the 
Park to join the main stem, and 
then a succession of pleasant 
stations, too many to mention 
here, but all possessing rich 
attractions and advantages for 
those who love a blended city 
and country life. Glimpses like 
those we give at Hestonville and 
Winnewood catch our eye as we 
fly past, and give us an idea of 
the scenes to be found by longer 
stay and stricter search. 

Nine miles from the city we reach Bryn Mawr 




FARM SCENE NEAR MALVERN. 

— " the broad hill," — a new town laid 



out by 



38 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



the Railroad Company, which is growing rapidly in popularity. It receives its name from the 
high plateau on which it is built, the wide, rolling view which it commands being not the least 
of its attractions. Our first view is limited to the depot buildings, which indicate the elegance 
of the dwellings erected here, as public buildings are apt to reflect the style of the private 
edifices by which they are surrounded. Our view of the Bryn Mawr Hotel, however, shows at 
once a palatial structure and the disposition of the buildings, set down amid wide grounds as 
beautiful as wealth and taste can make them. 

From Philadelphia to Paoli was a day's travel for the Conestoga wagon. It is a short run 
for the lightly-moving train, and the distance, nineteen miles, is quite convenient for men in 
business in the city who wish to reside " a little out of town." This is the terminus of the city 
accommodation trains, which 
run almost hourly. 

Now on " through Chester's 
storied vales and hills," through 
a rolling, highly-cultivated 
country, presenting views like 
that near Malvern and broken 
by streams which in the course 
of ages have worn deep chan- 
nels for themselves, and are 
now crossed by splendid struc- 
tures like the bridge at Coates- 
ville, which we presently reach ; 
on into Lancaster County, "the 
granary of Pennsylvania ;" and 
at Lancaster City the road di- 
vides, one branch going to the 
right, through Mount Joy and 
the " back country ;" the other 
running to Columbia and fol- 
lowing up the east bank of the 
Susquehanna to Middletown, 
where the tracks again unite. 
This part of the route, and, indeed, the whole 
course of the Susquehanna, is very beautiful. The 
wide, placid river with its smoothly shining waters 
spread out until it seems more like a lake than a 
flowing stream, the innumerable islands which dot 
its bosom, and the bold bluffs which in many 
places form its banks, combine to make a series of 
magnificent scenes, which, once seen, are ever 
remembered with pleasure. Seen from a night- 
train, on a moonlight night, the loveliness of the river views cannot be described in words. 

The fires of the extensive works of the Pennsylvania Steel Company, at Baldwin, cast a 
lurid glow over rail and river as we pass; and ten miles above Middletown we run into the 
spacious depot at Harrisburg, the capital of the State, remarkable for little beyond the sessions 
of the Legislature and its importance as a railway centre. Here the Pennsylvania road connects 
with the Lebanon Valley branch of the Reading, which runs through the fertile Lebanon 
Valley, and with the Cumberland Valley road, which runs southwest, through Carlisle and 
Chambersburg and the smiling valley of the Conodoquinet, to Hagerstown and on to a junction 
with the Baltimore and Ohio. This is not a history, and we cannot stop to rehearse the 
dramatic story of Lee's invasion and the fearful three-days' fight at Gettysburg. The Monument 




COATESVILLK BRIDGE. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



39 




MOONLIGHT ON THE SUSQUEHANNA. 

Stands as a memento of the battle that culminated the Rebellion, and he who will may spend 
much time in exploring this and other interest- 



ing points of the now peaceful and smiling 
valley. Its waving grain-fields and nodding 
orchard boughs are suggestive of the " Penn- 
sylvania plenty," for which this valley, with 
those of Lebanon, Lancaster, and Chester, 
has gained the State such an enviable reputa- 
tion. 

At Harrisburg we enter the most picturesque 
section of the Pennsylvania Railroad. The 
road now follows the east bank of the river for 
a few miles, then crosses on the " Five-mile 
Bridge," — a splendid structure nearly three- 
quarters of a mile long, which has received its 
name from being five miles from Harrisburg, 
— follows the western bank about ten miles 
farther, and then enters the romantic valley 
of the Juniata at the junction of that stream 
with the Susquehanna. This stream, flowing 
clear and pure from the summits of the Alle- 
ghanies, affords a convenient and most pictur- 
esque route for the railroad to climb their 
formidable barrier-walls. Famous in song, 
sketch, and story, its name at least must be 
familiar to every reader, while those who have 
not yet looked upon its beauties have still a 
treat in store. soldiers' monument, Gettysburg battle-field. 

At Lewistown we pass the junction of the 
Sunbury and Lewistown Railroad, which crosses the country from Sunbury, on the Susquehanna, 




40 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



to Lewistown, on the Juniata. At Huntingdon, thirty-eight miles farther, we connect with the 
Huntingdon and Broad Top Railway, which taps the first bituminous coal-fields and runs on 




LEWISTOWN NARROWS. 



to Bedford Springs, a well-known and liberally-patronized summer resort. We are now well 
up on the flanks of the AUeghanies and in a wild region, where all the settlements follow the 
lines of the railroads and where lovers of woods and woodland sports may enjoy them to 
their hearts' content. 




LOGAN HOUSE, ALTOONA. 

At Tyrone, the centre of an extensive iron industry, the Bald Eagle Valley road comes in 
from Lock Haven, on the Philadelphia and Erie road, running through and opening to the 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



41 



traveler still another section of mountain land, wild, romantic, dotted with sparse settlements 
and tastefully-situated little towns. At the end of a short branch of this road is Bellefonte, 




HORSESHOE CURVE. 



the county seat of Centre County and one of the prettiest towns in the State, and running in 
an opposite direction from the same intersection is the Snow-Shoe road, one of the few 
prettily-named roads in America. It runs twenty-six miles to the Moshannon Coal-mines, and 




ALLEGHANY MOUNTAIN TUNNEL. 



is adorned with stations whose names — Green Stump, Beech Creek, Snow-Shoe, etc. — remind 
one of mining nomenclature on the Pacific Slope. 



42 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 







MOUNTAIN HOUSE, CKESSON. 



Few passengers on any train but are interested in its arrival at Altoona ; for here, at the Logan 
House, close beside the iron track, a bountiful meal awaits them, and a liberal time is given 
them to eat it ; while the ride of 237 miles from Philadelphia and the bracing air of the high 
latitudes to which they have now climbed put them in the best condition to make the most of 
it. South from Altoona runs the Hollidaysburg Branch to the iron mines, the limestone valleys, 
and the well-stocked trout streams of Blair Countv. 




TKA( K TANK, NEAR JOHNSTOWN. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



43 



Taking our seats again, we begin the final struggle to reach the summit of the mountains. 
Two engines combine their strength to urge the train up the steep incline ; and soon after 
leaving Altoona they draw it round the far-famed Horseshoe Curve, a difficult pass round the 
head of a narrow valley where the road has been squeezed into a hollow of the hills till it takes 
the shape of a perfect horseshoe, and approaching trains on either arm run parallel, though but 
a stone's throw apart, until at the apex they meet and pass. 

Shortly after passing the Horseshoe the culminating summit is reached and pierced by a 
tunnel 3670 feet long, which takes the place of an elaborate system of zigzags and switchbacks, 
by which the mountain was formerly 
crossed. 

Here, on the very summit of the 
Alleghanies, three thousand feet 
above the sea, stands the town of 
Cresson, celebrated for its pure air 
and its attractions as a resort for 
invalids and others. Business-men 
who wish to keep within reach of 
telegraphs and express trains find 
Cresson just suited to their wants. 

The track now descends as rapidly 
as it ascended on the other side, 
and the steam of the engine is used 
to control the brakes rather than to 
propel the train. The remains of 
the old Portage Railroad, a system 
of levels and inclined planes, by 
which the boats of the Pennsylvania 
Canal were formerly conveyed over 
the mountains, are frequently seen 
from the cars as we descend. 

Near Johnstown, we cross, with- 
out seeing it, one of the latest im- 
provements for facilitating the rapid 
transit of goods and passengers. 
It is a long, shallow tank lying 
between the tracks. This is filled 
with water, and as the engine flies 
over it a scoop is let down and 
forces the water into the tender, 
which is supplied without stopping 
the trains. 

Johnstown is the most important 
town in Cambria County, and is the seat of very extensive iron-works; the rolling-mill of the 
Cambria Works being among the largest in the world. 

Our train now rolls along through a broken country thickly studded with towns, which grow 
more numerous as we near Pittsburgh. At Blairsville Intersection, the Western Pennsylvania 
road branches off and follows the valley of the Conemaugh to its junction with the Alleghany, 
and at Pittsburgh our road makes connection with systems of roads running through North- 
western Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Ohio, and all the Mississippi Valley and the Far West. 

Pittsburgh, the second city in Pennsylvania, the great manufacturing point of the Mississippi 
Valley, and the gateway between the East and the West, stands on a point of land at the con- 
fluence of the AUecrhanv and Monongahela Rivers, which here unite to form the Ohio. It is 




VIEW ox THK OLD PORTAGE ROAD. 



44 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



picturesquely situated on a plain surrounded by lofty hills ; and being at the head of the 
extensive river navigation of the Ohio and Mississippi, in a region rich in coal and iron and at 
the outlet of the oil district, it enjoys exceptional facilities for both manufactures and commerce, 
which it has not been slow to improve. It is pre-eminent in works of iron and steel, oil, 
glass, metals of various kinds, and coal. The bituminous coal of Pittsburgh is celebrated for 
its excellent quality and is shipped to all parts of the West, over beds of an inferior quality which 
might be raised and sold for half what it costs to import the product of the Pittsburgh mines. 
Fleets of barges continually descend the Ohio River from Pittsburgh laden with wheat, corn, 
oil, wool, coal, and manufactured articles, shoals of the peculiar stern-wheel steamboats of the 
Ohio lie constantly at its landings, and sea-going vessels even clear from " the port of Pitts- 
burgh " for distant parts of the world. Over $200,000,000 are invested in Pittsburgh's industrial 
works, the smoke of her furnaces and forges hangs like a cloud over the city all day long, and 
its legions of grimy workmen exert an influence on the commercial world which is felt to its 
farthest limits. 




RENOVO HOTEL. 



This is virtually our western bound. Beyond this, after traveling a few miles through a 
region broken with high hills and deep ravines, we come to the borders of West Virginia and 
Ohio, and stepping over these we come at once into a region too vast for us to think of exploring 
it. Let who will go farther: we have not yet done with Pennsylvania. 

The scenery of the Pennsylvania road is quite beautiful enough to warrant us in returning by 
the same route, but we shall have more variety if, after exploring the short lines in South- 
western Pennsylvania, where there is much that will repay the trip, we take the cars of the 
Alleghany Valley road and follow the windings of the crooked stream from which it takes its 
name to Franklin and the oil regions. Here we find a new industry : utterly unknown twenty 
years ago; then convulsing the nation with the rapid fortunes made and lost in it; now a 
wilderness of derricks and a labyrinth of wells, where the work of pumping the crude oil from 
its deep-seated reservoirs may be seen in all its phases. It is a sight that will interest both the 
scientist and the traveler for mere pleasure. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



45 



From Franklin we can go to Erie, by a combination of roads; or we can run up along the 
western border of the State, by another combination, direct from Pittsburgh. Erie, the ancient 
Presqu' Isle, is pleasantly located on a bluff overlooking Presqu' Isle Bay, on Lake Erie, 
The Philadelphia and Erie road will bring us back to the East through the well-wooded and 
sparsely-settled northern counties. All this region is a sportsman's paradise. Down this road 
come vast quantities of oil and lumber, and on this road are numerous resorts where the summer 
vacation may be happily and profitably spent. One of the pleasantest of these is Renovo, 
in Clinton County, the location of the Railway Company's principal shops. It is in a nook of 
the mountains, on the West Branch of the Susquehanna, and in the very heart of the woods. 
It is a resort just suited to the hunter and fisher. There is a good hotel, and the facilities for 
reaching the place are excellent. 

As an illustration of the scenery here, we 
present a view on Dutchman's Run, near 
Ralston, a station on the Northern Central 
Railway, which joins the Philadelphia and Erie 
at Williamsport, fifty-two miles below Renovo. 
Ralston is twenty-four iniles above Williams- 
port, and this may seem rather far to go for an 
illustration ; but the country is the same, in 
general character, all the way through,— for we 
are back among the Alleghanies again, — and 
lovely bits of scenery like this may be found 
anywhere in it. The Northern Central, coming 
from Elmira, New York, follows the Lycoming 
Creek, through a lovely country, to Williams- 
port, where it connects with the Erie, and also 
with the Catawissa. This place is the seat of 
an extensive lumber business. Here the two 
roads coalesce and use the same tracks, fol- 
lowing the West Branch of the Susquehanna, 
which, with its tributaries, the Erie has already 
traced from its springs, a hundred miles back 
in the woods, to its junction with the North 
Branch at Northumberland, a dreamy old 
town lying at the foot of a tall bluff which 
marks the meeting of the waters. At Lewis- 
burg, the Lewisburg Centre and Spruce Creek 
load branches off to make connection with 
the Pennsylvania road, — a connection which 
is still in the future; at Northumberland we 
make connection with the Lackawanna and 
Bloomsburg road, coming down the North Branch ; at Sunbury, two miles below Northumber- 
land, is the outlet of the Shamokin coal mines; at Herndon comes in the Mahanoy and Sha- 
mokin branch of the Reading, before mentioned; at Millersburg, the Summit Branch Railway, 
from the celebrated Lykens Valley coal region, makes connection ; and at Dauphin we meet 
still another branch of the Reading, the Schuylkill and Susquehanna. Here we cross the now 
wide and stately river on a bridge of magnificent proportions, and a run of a few miles more 
brings us to Harrisburg, which we reach by crossing the river again, on the beautiful platform 
bridge of the Cumberland Valley road. Our road, however, the Northern Central, follows on 
down the western bank of the river, the landscape growing smoother and showing wider farm- 
lands as we go southward, and the river vistas widening, until at Conewago, ten miles above 
York, we leave it and go, across country, on to Baltimore and the Southern system of roads. 




DUTCHMAN S RUN, NEAR RALSTON. 



46 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



Next in order after the Pennsylvania road, of those running into Philadelphia, comes the 

West Chester, a local road which winds 
around among the "storied vales and 
hills" and the fat fields of Chester and 
Delaware Counties, bears tribute to the 
flourishing suburban town of West 
Chester, and then curves round until it 
almost doubles back on itself, to inter- 
sect the Pennsylvania road a little 
beyond Paoli. It is one of the many 
loads which contribute to extend the 
city's social limits far beyond its cor- 
porate ones by offering pleasant and 
easily accessible homes for its people 
beyond, yet not too far beyond, its heat 
and bustle. 

Another road, whose facilities in the 
same line have been and are 
continually much improved, 
is the Philadelphia, Wilming- 
ton and Baltimore. The old 
track of this road crossed the 
Schuylkill at Gray's Ferry 
and ran over a low, marshy 
country near the Delaware 
River until the stream widened into the bay. The first part of the route is now changed, 
greatly for the better. It now hes on a high plateau, back from the river, healthful, 




d. 




AN OLD DELAWARE COUNTY FARMHOUSE. 




VIEW OF PHILADELPHIA FROM SHARON HILL. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA, 




well-drained, and offering 
numerous choice sites for 
suburban towns, a number 
of which we note as we 
pass. 

Starting from the " old 
Baltimore Depot," at Broad 
Street and Washington 
Avenue, we steam slowly 
to the city's edge at Gray's 
Ferry, and crossing the 
Schuylkill here, — where the 
name still lingers though 
the ferry was superseded 
long ago, — we take on the 
cars which have come ridley park, bridge station. 

over the Connecting Rnilroad from the New York trains, and are borne onward through 




RESIDENCE OF MR. F. O. C. DARLEY. • 

a pleasant country, which, however, the track is too tantalizingly low to let us see much of. 

We are compelled to adopt the 
philosophy of the Mississippi poet 
in front of Natchez, which he 

" Saw by snatches, 
Up over the bUiff, — 
Which wasn't enough. 
But we couldn't see more, 
For the shape of the shore 
Prevented, — 
So we had to be contented." 

Our deep cuts, however, hide some 

lovely scenery, as we shall find, if 

we will but perform that acrobatic 

and ungrammatical feat known in 

RIDLEY PARK. railway parlance as "laying over a 




48 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




GLENOLDEN. 



train," and climb the bank to where the people 
live. Ancient, sedate, respectable Darby is passed 
soon after crossing the Ferry ; then comes Sharon 
Hill, a new town, but one already feeling the stimu- 
lating impulse of the railway. 

Glenolden, next, a well-named retreat, offers a 
combination of beauty and comfort, where one 
instinctively selects his ground first and then builds 
his house to match it. 

Ridley Park, the future garden city, is not far 
beyond ; its favorable location warranting the hope 
that its projector's beautiful dream of a fair land- 
scape-city may soon be realized. The ornamental 
station, which here is perched directly over the 
railway tracks, attracts attention as a singular but 
pleasing innovation in railway architecture. 

Crumm Lynne, with its picturesque scenery and its 

nucleus of a thriving town, is presently passed, and 

ten miles from the city — which ten miles include 

^^^ all the snug little stations at which we have been 

Im^eiin^ — we meet the old track again just before entering the old city 

of Chester. 

Old city, indeed ! Chester was an important town when Philadelphia 
was unknown and unthought of. It is mentioned by Acrelius as a 
Swedish fort — then named Upland — about 1651, and Mesckopenachan, 
or Uplandz Kylen, is marked on Engineer Pf-ter Lindstrom's elabo- 
rate map of the Delaware, — the " Swenska 
Rcvier," — drawn in 1654-5. It is thus the 
oldest town in the State, and at least thirty 
years the senior of Philadelphia. William 
Penn was hospitably entertained here when 
on his way to found his future city ; and he 
it was who changed its name to Chester, to 
oblige his friend Pearson, who came from 
Chester, in England. 

The city now is a thriving, energetic, work- 
aday place, which bears lightly the burden 
of its years. John Roach & Sons' extensive 
shipyard, which covers twenty-three acres, 
and is adapted to building vessels of every 
description and of the largest size, is located 
here, and has done much to give the place an 
active business air. 

There are also other large industrial works, anc 
tional interests of the place are well attended to, 
to the ever-present common schools, by the Military Institute 
and Crozier Theological Seminary, both of which appear in 
our illustrations. 

At Lamokin, the next station below Chester, the Phila- 
delphia and Baltimore Central Railroad branches off and 
opens up a picturesque "back country," striking the Susque- 
hanna midway between the State line and Port Deposit, Md., 





CRUMM LVNNE FALLS. 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



49 







DISTANT VIEW OF LANDSCAPE, SHOWING MILITARY INSTITUTE AT CHESTER. 

and rejoining the main stem at Perryville. Properly, our journey ends here; but we venture 
just across the line to pay our respects to the genial artist F. O. C. Darley, with whose works 




CROZIER SEMINARY. 



5° 



THE RAILROAD SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




everybody is familiar, and whom everybody loves (his 
picturesque residence is shown in our illustration on a 
previous page) ; and now, being warned not to infringe 
farther on the territory lying beyond Mason and Dixon's 
line, we withdraw, and close our rambling tour, as we 
began it, on the banks of the Delaware. 

We have now concluded our brief sketch, with " pen and 
pencil," of the most attractive portions of Pennsylvania 
that are traversed by the railroads, but it is impossible 




THE DKLAWAKli NEAR CLAVMONT. 

to do full justice to the subject in a work necessarily so 
condensed as this, and we can make no better suggestion 
to our reader, if he be a lover of what is truly beautiful in 
nature, than to go over the routes we have just described. 
It is only by such a trip that the immense resources of 
the Keystone State can be realized. Its great manu- 
facturing interests manifest themselves in many parts ; its 
agricultural riches in others ; its natural beauties in all ; 
while its mineral wealth is unsurpassed by that of any 
other State. 



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OXtY A GIRIi. 

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GIFFARD INJECTOR, 



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ROBERT WOOD & CO., 

PHILADELPHIA, 

Ornamental Iron and Bronze Works. 



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12 



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13 



'A LIBRARY IN ITSELF." 



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14 



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